20+ Artsy & Cool Things To Do in Stockholm, Sweden

By Jacquelin Carnegie 
The lovely city of Stockholm is actually spread out over a series of islands. You can get from island to island--each with its unique neighborhoods--by ferry or the more prosaic metro and bus system. Everywhere you go in this city--that's a mixture of medieval and modern--you'll find trendy restaurants and cafés, lively bars, great art and interesting shops. Norrmalm is basically the downtown area. Gamla Stan is the Old Town district. Södermalm, which used to be working class, is now the hip, artsy section. The summer months are the perfect time to visit.
Mary Nelson, a Swedish-American jazz singer, advises visitors how to get the most out of Stockholm's cultural offerings. Here are some of her tips along with my artsy highlights:

FABULOUS TOURS
Metro Art Tour - Art Walks 

(Tour starts: T-Centralen Metro Station, SL Center at Sergels torg; Tours in English: June-Aug; Tues, Thurs & Sat, 3pm)

Metro Art

Stockholm's transit system (SL) offers a free guided-tour of all the incredible artwork in the Stockholm metro. Each line and station has a unique theme. All you need is a metro ticket (or Stockholm Card). This is a really cool way to see interesting art while familiarizing yourself with the metro system! Or, do your own self-guided tour.
The Millennium Tour
(Stadsmuseum, Ryssgarden)
Get a Millennium Tour Map in English & several other languages in the gift shop of the Stockholm City Museum. This is a self-guided tour of places in Stockholm that appear in the book series The Millennium Trilogy that began with the now-famous “The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo” by Stieg Larsson. The tour starts on the island of Södermalm at the "home" of the main character Mikael Blomkvist, then passes key locations in the books: bars, cafés, and of course, Lisbeth Salander’s "apartment." Whether you're a fan of the books or not, it's a great way to see and learn more about Stockholm's interesting neighborhoods. 

Old Town Ghost Walk

This is a really fun way to learn about Gamla Stan, the Old Town district of Stockholm. Explore the fascinating history as you stroll along the cobblestone streets, down dark alleyways, and into hidden courtyards. The terrific Stockholm Ghost Walk guides bring the past to life with gusto!

INCREDIBLE MUSEUMS

Stockholm has a great selection of exceptional museums from the Moderna Museet (Modern Museum of Art & Architecture) with its terrific collection and sculpture garden to the Nobel Museum with info on Nobel laureates from 1901 to the present, and for die-hard music fans there's ABBA The Museum in the Swedish Music Hall of Fame. (Some museums are open daily, others close on Mondays, so check before you head out). These are not-to-be-missed:

Millesgarden

Fotografiska Museet - Photography Museum 

(Stadsgårdshamnen 22)
Not only does this photography museum have great exhibits, it's a hot-spot, open late with music and entertainment. In a beautifully-restored, Art Nouveau-style industrial building with a marvelous cafe overlooking the water.
Hallwylska Museet
(Hamngatan 4)
The former home of Count and Countess von Hallwyl looks exactly as it did when the family lived here in the late 1890s. It's a fascinating example of the lifestyle and décor of Sweden's late Victorian period. The museum also has changing exhibitions and occasional music and theater in the courtyard in summertime.
Millesgarden
(Herserudsvägen 32, Lidingö)
Millesgarden is the lovely sculpture garden, former home, and artist studio of the famous Swedish sculptor Carl Milles and his artist wife, Olga. It's a spectacular spot with great views and a cafe, about 20 minutes from Stockholm's city center.

UNIQUE EXPERIENCES
Day Trip: Artipelag

Artipelag (photo: Winter Cherry Photography)

(Artipelagstigen 1, Värmdö)

Just a half-hour from Stockholm in the archipelago, this wonderful museum is in the most beautiful setting, overlooking the water. Artipelag--a showcase for international, modern art--is the vision of Björn Jakobson the creator of the ever-popular BabyBjörn products. Enjoy the art then walk along the lovely boardwalk around Baggen’s Bay leading up to the museum and meander on nature trails throughout the extensive grounds. There's also a cafe and restaurant both with marvelous views. Plan to spend plenty of time; you won't want to leave! (Get here by bus or boat from Stockholm.)
Spa Day: Centralbadet (Drottninggatan 88)
While in Stockholm, treat yourself to a Swedish massage and sauna in this beautiful Art Nouveau spa with hot and cold-water pools, sun deck, gym, and restaurant in the courtyard. Swedes have been coming here since 1904.

Gamla Stan, Old Town (photo: JCarnegie)

GREAT ENTERTAINMENT
Kulturhuset (Sergels torg)
Even if you don't speak Swedish, you'll find something to do in this "House of Culture" presenting theatre, dance, music, interesting art exhibits, and events for kids. There are also a couple of nice, casual restaurants and a rooftop café with a panoramic view (and dancing in the summer). Parkteatern: From June through August, there's a range of free cultural events in different outdoor venues.
Jazz Clubs: You might not think of Stockholm as a hotbed for jazz, but there are some great clubs: Stampen Jazz Pub, Stora Nygatan 5, Gamla Stan; Glenn Miller Café, Brunnsgatan 21; Fasching, Kungsgatan 63. The Stockholm Jazz Festival (Oct).
Dramaten - The Royal Dramatic Theatre (Nybroplan 1)
You might not want to sit through a bleak Nordic drama, but The Royal Dramatic Theatre gives guided tours in English of this beautiful Art Nouveau building built in 1908. (Eugene O'Neill's "Long Day's Journey into Night” premiered here in 1956.)

DIVINE DINING

Fjäderholmen Krog

The restaurant scene in Stockholm is hopping! Here are a few suggestions for great meals in extraordinary settings:

Riche (Birger Jarlsgatan 4) - A hip scene with beautiful people eating tasty food.
Fjäderholmarnas Krog (Stora Fjäderholmen) - A stunning locale; the restaurant looks like a modernist hunting lodge, on the closest island in the Stockholm archipelago; arrive by ferry boat.
Where to Stay:
There are many wonderful accommodations; here are a few in different neighborhoods:

Radisson Blu Royal Viking (Vasagatan 1) - This is a great location in the downtown area, but Radisson Blu also has six other really nice hotels in Stockholm.

Marriott Courtyard Stockholm Kungsholmen (Rålambshovsleden 50) - On Kungsholmen island, great if you want to be close to nature and a jogging path; also a good spot if you're traveling with kids.

Hotel Skeppsholmen (Gröna gången 1) - This splendid boutique hotel, in the Design Hotels group, has a country-in-the-city feel and a nice restaurant.

Making Your Trip Easier:

Stockholm Pass - The GoCity pass gives you  entrance to tons of museums & attractions and a selection of free sightseeing tours. SL: Stockholm's public transportation system (subway, bus, train, tram & ferries) is clean, safe & easy to use. 

Apps: There are several useful Apps to help you get the most out of your visit to this terrific city.

15+ Musical & Cool Reasons To Visit Leipzig, Germany

By Jacquelin Carnegie  

St Thomas Boys' Choir

 

Leipzig has been a city for 1,000 years, managing to beautifully preserve its history without getting stuck in the past. Once home to music legends Johann Sebastian Bach, Felix Mendelssohn, and Robert Schumann as well as Richard Wagner and Gustav Mahler, Leipzig should be on any music lover's itinerary. Recently, Leipzig has become a Mecca for a new music scene and a haven for contemporary artists, as old factories are converted into studio spaces. Come discover Leipzig's past, present, and future!

DISCOVER LEIPZIG'S MUSICAL HERITAGE
Leipzig is called the "City of Music" because the world's most preeminent composers worked and lived here from the 18th to the 20th century.

It's a thrill knowing they walked these same streets as you stroll around the beautiful, historic center.
Leipzig Music Trail - Walking or Bike Tour
There's an online map with a guide highlighting some 23 places where all these famous composers worked, lived, and performed, then do a walking or bike tour to check out the sites. If you'd prefer a guided tour, Leipzig Tourism has some tours to choose from.
Get Your Guide offers several low-cost tour options (make sure you select one in English, if you don't speak German).

THE MUSIC SCENE: THEN & NOW
First walk and/or bike around to get a feel for this lovely city, then listen to music in some pretty special places:
Thomaskirche - St. Thomas Church
Thomaskirchhof 18; http://bit.ly/20Na3YE
The church is known for the renowned St. Thomas Boys' Choir, once directed by none other than Johann Sebastian Bach. The Choir's repertoire has remained unchanged for 800 years and you can enjoy one of their weekly performances. (Fridays, 6pm - Vespers; Saturdays, 3pm - Bach cantata; Admission Fee: Purchase at the church or online.)

The Bach Museum
Thomaskirchhof 15/16; www.bachmuseumleipzig.de
Bach was an influence on Leipzig’s musical life from 1723 until his death in 1750. Relive that period at the museum, adjacent to the church.
Mendelssohn House
Goldschmidtstrasse 12; www.mendelssohn-stiftung.de
The house features the Mendelssohn family's former living quarters and numerous interactive displays about the composer's life and works. Also learn about Felix's equally-talented sister Fanny who was a musician & composer in her own right. (Performances: Every Sunday, 11am, concert in the music salon.)
Gewandhaus Concert Hall
Augustusplatz 8; www.gewandhausorchester.de
Treat yourself to a concert by the world-famous Gewandhaus Orchestra, the oldest civic concert orchestra in Germany, established in 1743.

Gewandhaus Orchestra (photo: Jens Gerber)

Leipzig Opera House
Augustusplatz 12; www.oper-leipzig.de/en
Hear fantastic operas, musicals, and also see ballet at Oper Leipzig, founded in 1693, twice voted “European Opera House of the Year.”

THE NEW, HIP CULTURAL SCENE
While classical music is still lauded here, Leipzig is now considered the #1 destination for "Yuccies" (young, urban creatives) as the former industrial areas such as Plagwitz and Connewitz are transformed into neighborhoods for artists and students with cultural spaces, galleries, start-ups, and eateries. Check out these hip venues:
UT Connewitz (Wolfgang-Heinze-Strasse 12A; utconnewitz.de) - This old theater is now a cool music hall that also presents films and performance pieces.

Spinnerei, Plagwitz

Werk II (Kochstrasse 132; werk-2.de) - A former factory, now a hip scene for an eclectic mix of music and events.
Conne Island (Koburgerstrasse 3; www.conne-island.de) - A punk rock & hip-hop music venue.

THE ART SCENE
Leipzig has marvelous museums such as the MdbK (Museum of Fine Arts) & the GRASSI (Museum of Applied Arts) and as old factories are converted into art studios and gallery spaces, a whole new art scene has emerged.
SPINNEREI
Spinnereistrasse 7; www.spinnerei.de
The Leipzig Baumwollspinnerei was once Europe's biggest cotton mill. Now, the factory has been transformed into an arts complex with studios for 100+ artists, 14 art galleries including HALLE 14 and Eigen + Art, and workshops for architects, designers, printers, and jewelry and fashion creators. There is also: a place to stay, Meisterzimmer; the LuRu cinema, and a theater and dance center. Explore it all on a guided tour. 

G2 Artspace

Eigen + Art: an influential Germany gallery in the Spinneri, is credited with promoting the "New Leipzig School" of neo-realistic painters such as the artist Neo Rauch.

MUSIC FESTIVALS GALORE
Classical-music lovers take note of the many, marvelous annual festivals such as:

Bachfest www.bachfestleipzig.de 

(June) - World-class musicians and international orchestras celebrate Bach with over 100 events, including “Cantata Day” when ten Bach cantatas are performed back-to-back!

Chamber Music Festival  http://bit.ly/1EFgsNS
(September) - "Con Spirito" This annual festival features music by Robert Schumann, the brilliant composer, his wife Clara, the talented pianist, and their composer friends who made beautiful music together in Leipzig in the early 1800s. (In addition to the festival, concerts are held throughout the year in the Schumannhaus museum.)

FOR LITERATURE LOVERS
Since Medieval times, when Leipzig was at the crossroads of two important trade routes, the city has been a thriving center for commerce and culture. In addition to famous musicians, Leipzig has some impressive literary landmarks:

Leipzig Book Fair - Literary Festival “Leipzig Liest” (Spring)

Leipzig is still referred to as the city of printing and publishing as this book fair--dating from the 15th century--is one of the most important in the world. And, now, its famed Literary Festival “Leipzig Liest” (Leipzig Reads) includes an English-language reading series.
Schiller House

"Shiller"

Menckestraße 42; http://bit.ly/1HIP2Tj
In 1785, Friedrich Schiller, the 18th-century German poet and playwright, lived and worked in this small farmhouse.
Auerbachs Keller (Mädler Passage, Grimmaische Strasse 2-4; http://bit.ly/1GXUdE7) - Established in 1525, this historic old tavern was a favorite hangout of Goethe, who was in Leipzig from 1765 to 1768 studying law. Lucky for us, he preferred poetry and the establishment's Fasskeller (barrel cellar) is

Barthels Hof

immortalized in Goethe's masterpiece, "Faust."

MAKING YOUR TRIP EASIER:
Leipzig Card - Gives you free rides on all public transport (bus, train, trams), along with free or discounted entrance to museums, attractions, events, & sightseeing tours, and reduced prices at select restaurants and stores.
Leipzig Tips - Interesting off-the-beaten-path things to do. Tips on neighborhoods, dining, lodging, and sightseeing via the Explore Leipzig App.

Dining: You can find everything from traditional German fare to vegan meals, from budget to pricey. These two places represent the old and the new Leipzig, from down below to on high:
Restaurant Ratskeller (Lotterstrasse 1; www.ratskeller-leipzig.de)
- This historic tavern, located in the underground vaults of the Neues Rathaus (new city hall) built in 1904, serves Saxon cuisine favorites such as roast pork, schnitzel and dumplings in a very traditional setting.

Marktplatz (photo: JCarnegie)

Panorama Tower - Plate of Art (Augustusplatz 9, 29th fl; www.panorama-leipzig.de) - Enjoy imaginative, nouvelle cuisine and spectacular views of the city.
Classic Coffee Houses: After sightseeing, relax over coffee and some Leipzig pastry specialties at Coffe Baum, Kaffeehaus Riquet, & Café Kandler.
Where to Stay: There is every type of accommodation imaginable from top hotels to Airbnb choices.
Steigenberger Grandhotel Handelshof
Salzgäßchen 6; steigenberger.com/Leipzig
This lovely hotel, in an historic building in the heart of the old city center, is within walking distance of all the highlights.
Getting There: Most flights from the US to Leipzig are connecting, but Leipzig is only one hour by direct train from Berlin, so combine a visit to both. 

Leipzig City Center (photo: A. Kliushnyk)

More Reasons To Visit

Leipzig is a beautiful, little city with so many wonderful things to see and do from the terrific, year-round music offerings to its famous Christmas Market. Live it up in the hip pubs & clubs or quietly reflect in Nikolaikirche - St. Nicholas Church, the oldest in Leipzig, celebrating 850+ years. Come discover it all for yourself, you won't be disappointed!

5+ Artsy & Cool Things To Do in Brooklyn, New York

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Brooklyn Bridge (photo: DUMBO BID)

Since Brooklyn has become the "hip" NYC borough, gentrification has set in with trendy boutiques and pricey restaurants now the norm. But, somehow, that doesn't take away from Brooklyn's charm. The old neighborhoods are still worth exploring and the new additions just add to the cool factor.

1) GO ON A HOUSE TOUR
A great way to explore Brooklyn's neighborhoods is on an annual, self-guided house tour. You get a peek into beautifully-decorated, private, brownstone homes, and the chance to discover lovely local churches and interesting businesses. The nominal fee is usually used to benefit the neighborhood preservation society and/or a good, local cause:

(photo: Fort Green Association)

Park Slope (May) parkslopeciviccouncil.org

Prospect-Lefferts Gardens (June) www.leffertsmanor.org
Victorian Flatbush (June) www.fdconline.org

2) VISIT ARTISTS STUDIOS & GALLERIES
Another great way to explore different Brooklyn neighborhoods is on regularly scheduled Art Walks, when local galleries stay open late, and during annual Open Studio visits:

Drift, Leonard Ursachi, DUMBO

DUMBO Gallery Walk - 1st Thursday, 6-8pm (www.dumbonyc.org) - Whether you're already an art lover or just want to see what's what, 1st Thursday gives you the chance to visit several galleries in one evening while strolling around Brooklyn's way-cool DUMBO section. The galleries often have special exhibitions and receptions; sometimes there's live music or an artist talk. Local bars offer drink specials throughout the night. 

DUMBO Open Studios (April) 
Bushwick Open Studios (Sept) artsinbushwick.org
Greenpoint Open Studios (May/June) greenpointopenstudios.com
Gowanus Open Studios (Oct) artsgowanus.org

Atlantic Ave Art Walk (May/June) atlanticave.org
Williamsburg has galleries galore to explore. Check out the exhibitions and dine at cool, local restaurants.

3) DRINK UP AT BREWERIES, WINERIES & DISTILLERIES 

(photo: Urban Adventures)

You'll be amazed at how many artisanal beer, wine, and spirits producers have set up shop in Brooklyn. These craft breweries and distilleries are producing terrific libations. (Some even do tastings & tours.) 

Foodies: Brooklyn also has great mom & pop food shops from Italian to Middle Eastern. Go on a "Tastings Tour" to sample the goods and learn how the local producers work their magic. Enjoy tasty snacks along the way in the shops & local eateries. (Urban Adventures: www.urbanadventures.com) 

4) CHOW DOWN IN BROOKLYN'S CHINATOWN
While Chinatown--in Manhattan and Flushing, Queens--is well known, you may be surprised to discover that Brooklyn also has a Chinatown in Sunset Park. Chef Chris Cheung, who's worked at such hot restaurants as Vong, Nobu & Ruby Foo’s, recommends: East Harbor (714 65th St, Brooklyn) and Pacific Palace (813 55th St, Brooklyn) for dim sum.  

Chef Cheung (photo: J Carnegie

 

 

For a special treat, head to Chef Cheung's own restaurant by Prospect Park: 

East Wind Snack Shop (417 7th Ave, btw 13th-14th Sts, Brooklyn; www.eastwindsnackshop.com) - It's more like a tasty-food boutique than a Chinese restaurant with everything on the menu--bao, dumplings, ribs, spring rolls, etc.--handmade from scratch every day and cooked to order, often by Chef Cheung himself! 
Note: East Wind now has a 2nd location in Carroll Gardens (253 Smith St). ​

5) CELEBRATE BROOKLYN'S CULTURAL DIVERSITY
This melting pot of cultures provides many ways to experience the music, dance, art, and cuisine of different countries without leaving the borough! Partake in activities where you can meet international people and encounter all this marvelous cultural diversity:
Haiti Cultural Exchange (haiticulturalx.org) - Get your Haitian groove on at one of HCX's innovative programs of performances, art exhibits, films, and public forums promoting cross-cultural connections and celebrating Haitian heritage.
Cumbe: Center for African & Diaspora Dance (cumbedance.com) - Experience the joys and rhythms of West African, Afro-Cuban, Afro-Haitian, and Afro-Brazilian dance and music at Cumbe's classes and cultural programs for adults and kids.

(photo: Cumbe)

West Indian-American Day Parade (Labor Day) wiadcacarnival.org - Brooklyn's largest parade with the atmosphere of Carnival in Trinidad and Tobago. There's music, food, and dance. The parade begins at the corner of Rochester & Eastern Parkway and ends near Grand Army Plaza.
Atlantic Antic (Fall) atlanticave.org - This huge street festival spans four neighborhoods (Boerum Hill, Brooklyn Heights, Cobble Hill & Downtown Brooklyn) from Hicks Street to Fourth Avenue along Atlantic Avenue. It's a celebration of all the diverse cultures that coexist in Brooklyn with food, art, live music, shopping, and fun festivities!

Extra! Extra!: Be sure to visit the terrific Brooklyn Museum which is right near the magnificent Brooklyn Botanic Garden.

Paris: 5 Top Artists Open Studio Visits (Portes Ouvertes)

Poster by Olivier Geffard

By Jacquelin Carnegie - (Paris, France)
Going on artists’ open studio visits is a great way to see interesting artwork and to get to know Paris. Because the Portes Ouvertes are organized by neighborhood (arrondissement), you can explore areas you might not be familiar with and get an inside peak into unique studio spaces and, sometimes, even an artist's home. The Open Studios (Portes Ouvertes) take place twice a year in spring and fall. Generally, work in all mediums is on exhibit: painting, photography, sculpture, woodworking, ceramics, mixed media, and video.
THE BEST PORTES OUVERTES IN PARIS
Each Portes Ouvertes location has Welcome Centers (points d’accueil) where you can get more information on the artists and pick up a map of the area's open studios. (Also, checkout each Portes Ouvertes' website beforehand for info and to download a map.)
Les Ateliers d'Artistes de Belleville (May)
Belleville: 19th arrondissement, with some sections in the 20th, 10th/11th
(Metro: Belleville or Jourdain) ateliers-artistes-belleville.fr
Belleville is a working class neighborhood with a large immigrant population, adding to its intrigue and diversity. There are some 250 artists and 20 collectives participating in the open studio visits.

Belleville (photo: Amelie Dupont)

Les Ateliers d'Artistes du Père Lachaise (May & Dec)
Père Lachaise: 20th arrondissement (Metro: Dumas or Avron) www.apla.fr/blog
The neighborhood is best known for the famous Père Lachaise Cemetery where the celebrated come to rest--Molière, Oscar Wilde, Jim Morrison, Chopin, Edith Piaf, and many other notables. About 40 "living" artists participate in the Portes Ouvertes and there's also a group show.

Portes Ouvertes - Les Frigos (May-June) 

Les Frigos: 19 rue des Frigos; 13th arrondissement (Metro: Bibliothèque François Mitterrand) www.les-frigos.com

Sculptor Jean-Paul Reti at Les Frigos

Les Frigos (The Refrigerators) is a building with studio spaces for about 200 eclectic artists. A former depot for trains carrying fresh produce into Paris, it's one of the only buildings to survive gentrification in this former industrial area on the Seine. Visit during the Portes Ouvertes or by appointment with a resident artist. The wonderful sculptor Jean-Paul Reti is the unofficial “mayor” of Les Frigos; if he’s not busy working on his art, he’s happy to explain the background of the building to visitors. 

Portes Ouvertes - Portes d’Or (June) 

Goutte d’Or: 18th arrondissement (Metro: Château Rouge or Barbès-Rochechouart) www.portesdor.com
The Goutte d’Or (drop of gold), east of Montmartre, is a working-class neighborhood where many North African immigrants live or come to shop, making for lively street scenes. Over 100 artists have studios here. Not to be missed is the work by José Cuneo, originally from Argentina, who makes marvelous, witty, 3-D light-boxes.

Cuneo's 3-D Paris Light Box

Portes Ouvertes des Ateliers de Ménilmontant (Sept)
Ménilmontant: 11th arrondissement (Metro: Ménilmontant or Place Gambetta)
www.ateliersdemenilmontant.org
Over 150 artistes open their studios in Ménilmontant, a hilly, working class area with cobblestone streets and old houses, bordered by Belleville and Père Lachaise. Famous singers Edith Piaf and Maurice Chevalier were born here; it's a fascinating area to discover. 

STREET ART 

While the Portes Ouvertes happen at specific times of year, you can see fantastic street art whenever you're in Paris. Wander around in the Belleville and Ménilmontant neighborhoods. Since the art on the walls is constantly in flux, you can pass by often and see something different as well as some enduring favorites. Or, take an informative, guided tour:

Paris Street Art Tours: These tours, led by a street art aficionado, are extremely-informative (in French or in English). 

Where To Stay: Paris is not only the City of Light, it's the city of fabulous art that will knock your socks off! Here are some equally interesting places to stay.

4 Great Day Trips from NYC: Splendor in the Grass--Outdoor Sculpture

By Jacquelin Carnegie – (New York, NY)

If you need a break from hectic city life, nothing soothes the soul more than art experienced in a beautiful setting.

STORM KING ART CENTER

Old Pleasant Hill Rd., Mountainville, NY; Tel: 845/534-3115; www.stormkingartcenter.org
(Open: April-November; Admission fee)

 Storm King, Maya Lin’s Wavefield (photo: Jerry L. Thompson)

This open-air museum, about an hour north of the city, features monumental sculptures in a Hudson Valley setting so stunning it will take your breath away. Around 100 spectacular works by acclaimed artists such as Alexander Calder, Henry Moore, Isamu Noguchi, and Louise Nevelson along with pieces by contemporary sculptors Andy Goldsworthy and Richard Serra are strategically placed in the fields, hills, and woodlands. Each year, the Center commissions new and exciting work for a special, themed exhibition. Also, be sure to check out Wavefield, an earth and grass installation by celebrated artist Maya Lin.

Storm King, William Lamson’s Solarium, Light and Landscape 

(photo: Jerry L. Thompson)

Spending the Day: 

Get around the 500-acre Storm King grounds by walking, taking a free tram, or renting a bike. There are few shaded areas, so in summertime bring a big hat and/or a parasol and plenty of sunscreen. There’s an open-air café for sandwiches or pack a lunch to be enjoyed at one of the pretty picnic areas.

Getting There: From New York (Port Authority Bus Terminal), take a Coach USA (Short Line) bus direct to Storm King.

GOVERNORS ISLAND

New York Harbor, www.govisland.com

(Open: Daily, year-round; Ferry fee)  

Mark di Suvero, courtesy Storm King 

(photo: JCarnegie)

This lovely spot, 5 minutes from Manhattan Island, was called Nut Island by Native Americans when it was “purchased” by the Dutch in 1637; it became part of New York under the English. Then, for about 200 years, what’s now called Governors Island was a base for the US Army and Coast Guard. Most recently, the Island has been transformed into an artsy recreational area open to the pubic. 

Governors Island, Mark di Suvero, courtesy Storm King 

(photo: Jerry L. Thompson)

Spending the Day: 

Get around Governors Island by walking, bringing a bike, or renting one or a fun Surrey. There's a variety of food vendors, but your best-bet is to pack a lunch and head to Picnic Point with great views of the Statue of Liberty. Some new, fancy options include a Spa with pool & overnight stays via Glamping.

Getting There: Access Governors Island by a quick ferry ride from Manhattan (Battery Maritime Building, next to the Staten Island Ferry Terminal) or Brooklyn (Pier 6 in Brooklyn Bridge Park or Red Hook & NYC Ferry stops).

KYKUIT

Rt. 9, Sleepy Hollow, NY; Tel: 914/631-8200; http://www.hudsonvalley.org/historic-sites/kykuit

(Open: May – November; Admission fee)

Kykuit  (photo: Ben Lee)

Kykuit, the Rockefeller family mansion--now an historic site--less than an hour north of the city, is situated on a bluff providing magnificent views of the Hudson River. The Rockefellers championed modern art, so the house is filled with impressive artwork. But make sure to purchase the tour package that includes the gardens because, on the estate grounds, there’s an absolutely amazing collection of modern sculpture by Picasso, Brancusi, Calder, Giacometti, Henry Moore, Isamu Noguchi, Louise Nevelson, and David Smith.

Kykuit, Max Bill’s Triangular Surface in Space
(photo: Ben Lee)

Spending the Day: 

The only way to visit is on a tour, best booked beforehand; wandering around on your own is not permitted. At Phillpsburg Manor, Kykuit’s Vistor Center, there's a café with sandwiches & salads and picnic tables or stop at a restaurant in Tarrytown: Sweet Grass Grill on Main Street or dine right on the water at the Washington Irving Boat Club.

Getting There: From New York (Grand Central Station), take Metro North train Hudson Line to Tarrytown. Then, a taxi from the station to Phillpsburg Manor, Kykuit’s Vistor Center, where all the tours start.

GROUNDS FOR SCULPTURE

18 Fairgrounds Rd., Hamilton, NJ; Tel: 609/586-0616; www.groundsforsculpture.org

Grounds for Sculpture, Carlos Dorrien’s Nine Muses 

(photo: Ricardo Barros)

(Open: Year-round; Admission fee, Reserve tickets in advance)

In New Jersey, about an hour from New York City, you’ll find one of the most delightful places. In a pretty, 42-acre park surrounding a lake, over 300 sculptures by established and emerging artists are on display. The pieces range from traditional to abstract to whimsical by renowned artists such as Clement Meadmore, Anthony Caro, Beverly Pepper, Kiki Smith, and George Segal.

Grounds for Sculpture, If It Were Time by Seward Johnson, 

a 3-D version of Monet’s painting Terrace at Sainte-Adresse.

Spending the Day: 

Stroll leisurely around the Grounds. (In summertime, bring a hat and/or a parasol & plenty of sunscreen.) The Van Gogh Café is a nice spot for salads & sandwiches. Rat’s Restaurant is a more upscale option for lunch or dinner. (They’ll even prepare a picnic basket for you to enjoy by the lake, as outside food is not allowed). 

Getting There: From New York (Penn Station), take NJ Transit train to Hamilton. Then, a 5-minute taxi ride to Grounds For Sculpture.

Discover France’s La Vendée Region, Part 3: Noirmoutier – Island Life: Sun, Sand, Salt, Seafood & Little Potatoes!

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Noirmoutier (photo: @lenamrzl)

La Vendée is a wonderful area to explore in the Pays de la Loire region on France’s western coast. It’s known for its’ lovely, beach towns such as Les Sables-d'Olonne and its’ bucolic countryside, Le Bocage Vendéen. Then, there’s Noirmoutier—an island that’s about as idyllic as beach life could get: totally peaceful and extremely picturesque. The French and other Europeans like to vacation here, and you will too. There’s great food, beautiful beaches, and some of the friendliest locals you’re likely to meet in France! 
11 GREAT REASONS TO VISIT NOIRMOUTIER ISLAND
Apart from by boat, for centuries, the only way to reach Noirmoutier Island was via the Passage du Gois, a tidal causeway only accessible at low tide. Finally, in 1971, a bridge was built making this vacation paradise more accessible. The best times to visit: April, May & June (to avoid the summer crowds) and September (if the weather is good).
1) Get Ready To Unwind: Complete Serenity
Maybe it’s the light or the microclimate (mild winters and temperate summers), but the moment you arrive, you relax. You’ll be charmed by the pretty surroundings, the lovely villages, the sunny weather, the crystal-blue water, the nice beaches, the simple, carefree lifestyle, the traditional white houses with blue shutters, the scent of mimosas…the food!
2) Explore The Island
It’s confusing, so just to be clear, the island is: l'Île de Noirmoutier. The main town is: Noirmoutier-en-l'île -- filled with cute, little shops, lots of great restaurants, and several historic sites.

Noirmoutier-en-ile (photo: @Trendz)

Office de Tourisme (Rue du Général Passaga, Noirmoutier-en-l’île &/or Rue de Polder, Barbâtre) - First, stop at the tourism office for some itinerary suggestions & to pick up a map. Then, drive around or, since the island is relatively flat, go exploring by bike.
Visit the Villages & Neighborhoods: Barbâtre, la Guérinière, l'Épine, l'Herbaudière & Noirmoutier-en-l'île. L'Herbaudière Port: A lively fishing port with a marina, souvenir shops, bars, and restaurants. Bois de la Chaise: An area of lovely villas and chalets surrounded by picturesque pines, mimosa & oak trees. See the Windmills – Since the 7th century, there have been windmills on the island. Of the 32 erected during the 19th century, 23 remain; several have been turned into unique, vacation homes.
3) Relax at The Beach

Plage des Dames (photo: J.Carnegie)

Noirmoutier is an island in the Bay of Biscay, so there are lovely beaches everywhere you turn. Some of the most popular: Plage des Dames, Plage des Sableaux, Anse Rouge & La Madeleine. Go to several and see which ones you like best!
4) Get A Refreshing Workout – Sports Galore
There are lots of water sports to enjoy: kitesurfing, paddleboarding, kayaking, water skiing, scuba diving, sailing, etc.
In addition to biking around the island, there are beautiful places to stroll and hike: along the beaches, through the salt marshes, and on lovely trails in the woods: Forêt de la Frandière in Barbâtre, Bois des Eloux in L'Epine & Bois de la Chaise in Noirmoutier. Plus: Horseback riding, tennis, fishing, etc.
5) Discover The Island’s Food Heritage: Salt, Seafood & Little Potatoes
Noirmoutier’s year-round inhabitants are people who’ve lived off the land & sea for generations: mostly fisherman, potato farmers, and salt harvesters.
Salt: In the 7th century, Benedictine monks began transforming the island’s wetlands into salterns--basins where salt is cultivated. Today, there are about 100 salt harvesters (saunier) on the island, using traditional methods to harvest the “white gold” Fleur de sel.

Noirmoutier Potatoes (photo: Julien Gazeau)

Seafood: More than 100 fishing boats unload their catches here daily, including sole, sea bass, striped mullet, lobsters, etc. Locals also like to dig for clams & shrimp and harvest oysters & the delectable bouchot mussels.
Potatoes: Noirmoutier is famous for its’ potatoes--the Sirtema, the Lady Cristl, the Charlotte, but especially the Bonnotte. Planted by hand, grown in sandy soil, and fertilized with seaweed, which gives them their unique flavor.
Les Saveurs de l'ile de Noirmoutier - You can find these and other specialties such as cookies & pastries at little shops and at weekly “Farmers’ Markets” throughout the island. All local products are certified; look for the label Saveurs de l’île de Noirmoutier (Flavors of Noirmoutier Island).
6) Enjoy Some of The Most Delicious Meals You’ll Ever Eat
The chefs here benefit from the island’s bounty to create amazing dishes. Each restaurant offers its own take on Noirmoutier's cuisine. There are many to choose from; start with these: 
Le 11 (11 Quai Cassard, Noirmoutier-en-l'Île, Tel: +33 (0)2 28 10 11 11; https://le11denoirmoutier.com) - Right on the waterfront, a casual, very-friendly spot with tasty meals; try their special: Fish & Chips.

Bouchot Mussels (photo; @Trendz)

Le P’tit Noirmout (10 Rue du Marché, Noirmoutier-en-l’Île, Tel: +33 (0)2 28 10 79 52; https://www.le-ptit-noirmout.com) - Good food in a lively, fun atmosphere.
Le Petit Bouchot (3 Rue Saint-Louis, Noirmoutier-en-l'île, Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 32 56; https://www.restaurant-noirmoutier.com) - Delicious meals in a very staid, traditional setting.
La Potinière (27 Ave Georges Clemenceau, Noirmoutier-en-l’Île, Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 09 61; https://potinierenoirmoutier.com) – A very-modern fish & seafood place, right at the beach, Plage des Dames in Bois de la Chaise.
La Marine*** (5 Rue Marie Lemonnier, L'Herbaudière, Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 23 09; https://www.alexandrecouillon.com) - Michelin 3-star restaurant, booked a year in advance. Chef Alexandre Couillon uses only the freshest, local ingredients: seafood right from the port across the street and herbs & vegetables from his own “kitchen garden.” His wife Céline also runs the more-casual, bistro next door La Table d'Elise. Can’t get into either, get some tasty goodies at their little pastry/grocery shop, Le Petit Couillon.
7) Go on a Guided Tour
Office de Tourisme (Rue du Général Passaga, Noirmoutier-en-l’ile; Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 80 71) - The Tourism Office offers several interesting Tours (only in French), but some you could enjoy anyway such as a boating excursion. It’s worth checking out what they have to offer. In addition…

Marais Salants (photo: Simon Bourcier)

Visite des Marais Salants – Visit a salt basin to see how the Fleur de sel is harvested. (Marais de Bonne Pogne: May-Sept, tour in English.)
Visite de la Criée à L'Herbaudière Port – Tour the port and the “criée” (fish auction market) where all the fishing boats unload their daily catch. (Tour in French only.) 
8) Take Part In Unique Island Activities
La Fête de la Bonnotte (May) – On the 1st Saturday in May, Noirmoutier’s illustrious Bonnotte potato is feted with an elaborate, communal meal followed by a concert. In the morning, you can go into the fields to pick your own potatoes.
Les Foulées du Gois (June) – Athletes race across the Passage du Gois against the rising tide. Or, just consult the tide schedule and walk or bike across any time at your leisure.
9) Learn More About The Island’s Historic Heritage
Noirmoutier-en-l'île has several historic sites to visit:

Windmill house (photo: J.Carnegie)

Château de Noirmoutier (Place d'Armes) – This 12th century castle is now a museum. Climb to the top for a great panoramic view.

Hôtel Jacobsen (Rue Saint Louis) – Once the home of the influential Jacobsen family, it’s now a maritime-history museum.
Église Saint-Philbert (2 rue du Cheminet) – This 11th century church was built on the grounds of the former Benedictine Abbey, founded in 674 by the monk Saint-Philbert.
10) Be Entertained
Les Salorges (22 Quai Jean Bart, Noirmoutier-en-l'Île) - At this performance center, even if you don’t speak French, there are lots of dance & concert programs to enjoy as well as many programs for kids.
Several cafés in the various villages have live music in the evenings and, if you speak &/or understand French, go to the movies: Le Mimosa (73 Ave Joseph Pineau, Noirmoutier-en-l'Île). 
11) Be Welcomed Like Family
The people in all the shops, restaurants, and guesthouses are very welcoming—especially if you arrive off-season, in the spring or fall, as I’m recommending.
Where To Stay: There’s everything from hotels to Maison d'hôtes (guesthouses) to camping grounds and rental homes. Here’s a lovely place to start: 

The Corner

The Corner - Maison d'hôtes (2 rue du Général Leclerc, Noirmoutier-en-l’île;
Tel: +33 (0)6 09 86 17 79; https://www.thecorner-no.fr) - When traveling to some place you’ve never been before, it’s nice to be welcomed with open arms. The Corner, is owned by an American, Diane, and her French-chef husband, Raphael. It’s like staying with family you just never met before. Located in the center of lovely Noirmoutier-en-l’île, right by all the cute little shops, the house dates from 1814 and was the home of the former mayor. Completely renovated, today there are 5 beautifully-decorated guest rooms—perfect for romantic getaways. And, in the adjoining property, there are larger rooms great for families or groups of friends traveling together. The amount of thought and attention to detail that has gone into decorating & outfitting each guest room is truly amazing. That, plus Chef Raphael’s delicious meals makes The Corner the perfect place to start your vacation on Noirmoutier Island.
Getting Around: You can rent a car or a bike or hop on the little

Passage de Gois (photo: @alamoureux)

tourist train, Noirmout'Train. 

Getting There: From Paris: SNCF Train to Nantes with a connecting bus, Aléop coach #13 (2hrs & 1.5hrs). Airport: Nantes Atlantique (then an hour drive to the island). Or, consult the tide schedule and drive, bike or walk across the Passage du Gois!