Hudson Valley: 10+ Artsy & Cool Things To Do in Peekskill, New York

By Jacquelin Carnegie 

Many Hudson Valley river towns have become so hip, they're almost unrecognizable. But so far, Peekskill has managed to remain low-key, while becoming a haven for artists and expanding its cultural scene. Much of this unpretentious renaissance is due to the presence of Hudson Valley MOCA, founded by the cutting-edge, art collectors Livia and Marc Straus, who are committed to the enrichment of the multi-cultural Peekskill community. Back in 1861, a forward-thinking, President-elect Abraham Lincoln stopped here; it's time to follow his lead.
ARTSY PEEKSKILL
Hudson Valley MOCA
1701 Main St; Tel: 914/788-0100; https://bit.ly/2Q3G6Do

Laura Kimpton, HVCCA
(photo: Sarah Connors)

Livia Straus and her husband Marc put the groove in groovy. These avant-garde, ahead-of-the-curve collectors opened this not-for-profit arts center in 2004. In addition to presenting innovative and unconventional exhibits of contemporary art, the center offers a wide range of community outreach and educational programming for local students and adults. 

Enlighten Peekskill: Hudson Valley MOCA is also the primary sponsor of this project to "light the way" from the train station to downtown with an exhibition of site-specific artwork.
Peekskill Public Art Trail: Throughout the downtown area and along the stunning Riverfront Green Park there's a great sculpture trail with artwork from past Peekskill Projects and pieces commissioned by the city of Peekskill. Download a map and go for a stroll.
Peekskill Arts Alliance - Open Studios (www.peekskillartists.org): Every June, the PAA organizes an artists' open studio weekend, highlighting local artists and galleries. Over 200 artists reside in Peekskill.
The Hat Factory (1000 No. Division St; peekskillhatfactory.com): Kind of an artsy mall; for ceramic lovers, the Peekskill Clay Studios.

GREAT ENTERTAINMENT
The BeanRunner Cafe (201 So. Division St; Tel: 914/737-1701; www.beanrunnercafe.com)

Lisa Gutkin

 - This lovely cafe in downtown Peekskill has great live music every Friday and Saturday night--jazz, blues, reggae, soca, and singer/songwriters (call to reserve seats in advance). If you're lucky, you might get to hear Lisa Gutkin, whose family has spent summers in the area for five generations.

The Paramount Hudson Valley (1008 Brown St; http://bit.ly/2czSYhH) - This restored 1930’s movie palace is now a performing arts showcase with top names in music of all genres, comedy, and more. 

Peekskill Jazz & Blues Festival (Summer) - This free, outdoor festival features world-class jazz & blues musicians.
Feel Like a Local: Head to the Peekskill Farmers Market (Saturdays, June-Nov, 8am-2pm, on Bank Street, btw Main St & Park St) & Peekskill Flea Market (Sundays, April-Nov, 8am-4pm). 

Dine in Style: The restaurant scene in town is booming thanks in part to restaurateurs Louie Lanza (The Hudson Room, Taco Dive Bar, The Hudson Creamery) and John Sharp (Gleason's and Birdsall House). Several of the restaurants also offer live music, and two coffee houses double as galleries/music venues. There's a brewery and several gastro pubs. Here's a list of Peekskill's many eateries. 

BR Nelson, Beyond, Art Trail
(photo: J. Heumann)

Where To Stay: 

Inn on the Hudson (634 Main St; Tel: 914/739-1500; www.innonthehudson.com) - Get a discount if you mention the HVCCA.

Holiday Inn Peekskill (2 John Walsh Blvd; Tel: 800/315-2621; http://bit.ly/2csiauE). Or try, Airbnb and Bed & Breakfasts.
Getting There: From New York City (Grand Central Terminal) take a train to Peekskill on Metro-North's scenic Hudson line (about an hour).

Paris: 10+ Artsy Reasons to Explore Montmartre

By Jacquelin Carnegie – (Paris, France)

Sacré-Cœur, La Fête des Vendanges

Imagine what it was like to hang out in Montmartre back in the late 19^th & early 20^th century when this hill in the 18th arrondissement was a bohemian enclave of artists, writers, and poets. Today, Montmartre’s become a tourist attraction, but the vestiges of its artsy past still remain and are definitely worth exploring. To experience the authentic charm of this neighborhood, sightsee early in the morning and late at night and wander down the lovely side streets to chat with the locals.
MONTMARTRE’S MOST INTRIGUING SIGHTS

Le Bateau-Lavoir

 (photo: cinazza)

13 rue Ravignan, Place Emile Goudeau; Metro: Abbesse

Although the building, rebuilt after a fire, isn’t open to the public, check out the commemorative window because a number of the most influential artists and writers of the 20^th century once lived here. From 1904 to 1912, Pablo Picasso had a studio where he painted Les Demoiselles d’Avingnon, ushering in cubism. Artists Modigliani and Gris also lived here as did poets Max Jacob and André Salmon.

(photo: JCarnegie)

Le Passe-Muraille 

Place Marcel Aymé, at rue Norvins & rue Girardon; Metro: Lamarck–Caulaincourt
This intriguing sculpture is based on a short story character, Monsieur Dutilleul, who was able to walk through walls (Le Passe-Muraille, 1943). Famous French actor Jean Marais made the bronze sculpture to honor the author, Marcel Aymé, who lived in Montmartre.

Le Mur des “Je t’aime” (“I love You” Wall)

Place des Abbesses, Square Jehan Rictus; www.lesjetaime.com; Metro: Abbesses

 (photo: Moxieg)

This unique art installation looks like a blackboard covered with scribbles, but it’s actually a wall of glazed tiles with “I Love You” written in 250 languages to inspire peace and love.

THE BEST ENTERTAINMENT IN MONTMARTRE

 (photo: auselen)

Au Lapin Agile 
22 rue des Saules; Tel: 01/46-06-85-87; www.au-lapin-agile.com; Metro: Lamarck–Caulaincourt
Open: Tues, Thurs-Sat, 9pm-1am; Cost: 40€ per person, includes one drink
An evening at the Lapin Agile is kitsch, it’s cool, it’s not to be missed. Opened in 1860, artists and writers such as Picasso, Utrillo, Modigliani, and Apollinaire used to hang out here. You can’t go back in time but, each night, a talented group of musicians and singers keeps the art of French chanson alive.

Théâtre Lepic

1 avenue Junot; Tel: 01/42-54-15-12; theatrelepic.com; Metro: Abbesses

This little theater was renovated by famed film director Claude Lelouch for use in one of his movies, then run by his daughter Salomé. It has become a neighborhood venue for innovative theater, concerts and family entertainment. Catch a show and feel like a local.

MONTMARTRE’S MUST-SEE MUSEUM & GALLERIES

Musée de Montmartre

12 rue Cortot

www.museedemontmartre.fr Metro: Lamarck–Caulaincourt; Open: Daily, 10am-7pm; Fee.

Before the historic Manoir de Rosimond became a museum highlighting Montmartre’s fascinating past, it was home to some incredible artists such as Renoir, Utrillo, and Raoul Dufy. Enjoy the exhibits, then contemplate the past in the lovely, courtyard garden where Renoir once sat and painted. You can even have a snack at the Café Renoir.

André Renoux, Galerie André Roussard

It's amazing how many admired painters have had studios in Montmartre including some of the most famous such as Braque, Degas, Modigliani, and Utrillo. Today, a new generation of talented artists such as Gen Paul, André Renoux, Jean-Charles Decoudun, and Robert Delval, keep the tradition alive.

Galerie AVM

42 rue Caulaincourt; Tel: 06/77-77-85-46; galerieavm.com
Metro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt Open:Wed-Sun, 2pm-7pm 

Paule Honoré, Galerie AVM 

This delightful little gallery exhibits contemporary art: paintings, sculpture, prints, and objects d’art. It’s on Caulaincourt, a beautiful street in a less touristy section of Montmartre, worth exploring.

Halle Saint Pierre
2 rue Ronsard; Tel: 01/42-58-72-89; www.hallesaintpierre.org; Metro: Anvers; Open: Daily, 11am-6pm; Fee.
Built in 1868, the Halle Saint Pierre, located at the base of Montmartre, was once a market. Today, it’s a lovely cultural center with a cute café, a folk art collection, and space for temporary exhibits.

DISCOVER MONTMARTRE’S FASCINATING PAST

Place du Tertre (photo: David Monniaux)

Walking The Spirit Tours

Tel: 519/497-0933; www.walkthespirit.com; Duration: 2+ hrs; Fee per person

In the 1920s, jazz musicians and entertainers from the “Harlem Renaissance”--Josephine Baker, Sidney Bechet, Ada “Bricktop” Smith, and writers Langston Hughes and Countee Cullen--came to Paris and gravitated to lower Montmartre. On The Entertainers tour, learn all about this jazz scene in Montmartre and see where the famous clubs such as Chez Bricktop, Le Grand Duc and Chez Josephine used to be.

IT’S PARTY TIME IN MONTMARTRE

La Fête des Vendanges de Montmartre 
www.fetedesvendangesdemontmartre.com

Montmartre’s vineyards date from 390 B.C. Every year, during the month of October, Montmartre’s Wine Harvest Festival is celebrated throughout the neighborhood with a parade, wine-tasting booths, food stalls, music, dancing in the streets, and fireworks. It’s a fun time to plan a trip to Paris.

La Commanderie du Clos-Montmartre

Btw rue des Saules & rue Saint-Vincent; Tel: 01/44-92-35-34; Metro: Lamarck–Caulaincourt

(photo: Son of Groucho)

The current vineyard was re-planted in 1929. The Clos Montmartre can be visited during La Fête des Vendanges or through special arrangement with La Commanderie (call first).

GRAB A SNACK IN MONTMARTRE

Jean-Charles Decoudun, Galerie André Roussard

Au Relais (48 rue Lamarck; https://aurelai.fr/en) - A typical French bistro. Les Petits Mitrons (26 rue Lepic;

https://bit.ly/2MDY5lH) - A local bakery known for quiches & fruit tarts.

WHERE TO STAY:

Airbnb: Really get a feel for Montmartre by renting a room or an apartment in the neighborhood. 

Hotel des Arts (5 Rue Tholozé; Tel: 01/46-06-30-52; www.arts-hotel-paris.com) - a little, low-key hotel that pays homage to Montmartre’s artsy past.

(photo: Maggie D’Urbano)

GETTING THERE:
Walk: Several different sets of  steep steps; Metro: Abbesses or Lamarck–Caulaincourt; Bus 40: Makes several stops in Montmartre; Funicular: Rue Tardieu (at the base) to Rue Saint Eleuthère (at the top);   

Le Petit Train de Montmartre: at Place Blanche, hop on a little tourist choo-choo.

5 Great Ways To “Edutain” The Kids in NYC

Tim McKiernan, The Adventures of Tom Sawyer,
The New Victory Theater (photo: Eric Woolsey)

By Jacquelin Carnegie 

In New York City, the options to keep kids occupied are endless. Here are some that expose your children to a range of cultural activities while helping them learn to appreciate the offerings:
Song & Dance (& Juggling) on Broadway

The New Victory Theater

209 West 42nd St.; Tel: 646/223-3010; www.newvictory.org
The New Victory Theater puts on shows that thrill children and delight adults. Hands-down the best entertainment for kids (and their parents) in New York City. The performances are geared to different ages from lively acrobatics for the wee ones to musicals and serious dramas for teens and pre-teens. The New Vic also offers workshops in juggling and other fun activities your little sprout will get a kick out of learning.

Classical Music Made Easy
The Little Orchestra Society
Tel: 212-971-9500; www.littleorchestra.org
(Geared to ages 3-12) 

The Little Orchestra Society, Lolli-Pops concert
(photo: Noah Stern Weber)

If you’ve ever wondered how to get a youngster interested in classical music, here’s the answer. At these concerts, music is not just played, it’s explained. In a fun, entertaining way, the orchestra conductor introduces the young audience members to all the different instruments (and the sounds they make). The kids learn some background about the composer and the piece of music they’ll hear. Then, when the concert starts, an imaginative dramatization with actors, dancers, and life-size puppets accompanies the music. The kids are completely engrossed and blissfully happy as they learn to appreciate the joys of classical music.

Sleep with the Fishes & Dinosaurs!
A Night at the Museum - AMNH
American Museum of Natural History
Central Park West at 79th St.; Tel: 212/769-5570; http://bit.ly/MYJmeN (Cost: $225 per person; Members: Discounts; 

Sleepover with the Whales (photo: ©AMNH/R.Mickens)

Open to: 6-12 year olds)
This is a child’s dream come true—staying in the museum overnight to go exploring by flashlight! Knowledgeable guides help the kids explore the live-animal exhibits and lead them on fun “museum quests.” After snacks, and checking out the dinosaurs, kids get to bed down on cots set up under the famous blue whale, next to African elephants, or at the base of a volcanic formation. By morning light, there are sure to be some future anthropologists and paleontologists among the sleepyheads. (Back after a 5-year hiatus!)

Bilingual Entertainment
Society of the Educational Arts (SEA)
Clemente Soto Vélez Cultural & Educational Center
107 Suffolk St.; Tel: 212/529-1545; www.teatrosea.org

Goldilocks (Ricitos y Los Tres Ositos), SEA

In our globalized world, it’s important for children to learn other languages. Today, Spanish is one of the most important. Here’s a way to expose kids with a spoonful of azúcar. Teatro SEA presents marvelous, bilingual musicals--versions of famous fairy tales such as Cinderella (Cenicienta) and Goldilocks (Ricitos y Los Tres Ositos)--and plays as well as Hispanic folk tales and elaborate puppet shows. ¡Vámonos!

A Museum Just for Kids!

CMOM, EatSleepPlay

Children's Museum of Manhattan
212 West 83rd St.; Tel: 212/721-1223; www.cmom.org
The interactive exhibits here combine play and learning. They are geared to teaching children about: creativity and analytical thinking, healthy lifestyles, and the world’s diverse cultures. In addition to the fun, hands-on exhibitions, every week CMOM offers tons of kid-friendly workshops, classes and performances, many free with admission.

5 Artsy Day Trips an Hour from PARIS

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Monet, Train to Jeufosse

If you’re an art lover, this itinerary is for you. It was the development of train travel in the late 1800s in France that enabled artists to easily reach the Parisian outskirts to paint landscapes, giving rise to the en plein air ("in the open air") painting style. These treks into the countryside led artists to consider moving to the picturesque suburbs. Today, follow in their footsteps by hopping on a train. All of these lovely places are within an hour of Paris either by RER (light rail), SNCF (train) or TGV (fast train).

MORNINGS WITH MONET
Fondation Claude Monet
84 Rue Claude Monet, Giverny
fondation-monet.com; (Open: April-Nov. Fee.) 

Monet, The Artist's Garden at Giverny

Monet noticed the village of Giverny while passing by on a train; in 1883, he moved his family here. His presence attracted other artists, from the famous to the unknown. (On Nov. 28, 1894, both Rodin and Cézanne visited!) It’s easy to visit Monet’s house and gardens without taking an overpriced bus tour. Get here on your own—by train, of course. Take an early one to arrive just as the gates open at the Claude Monet Foundation. The garden is beautiful, but smaller than imagined. And, the famed Japanese water garden is now on the other side of a busy main road. However, the house has been lovingly restored and the town is worth a visit. Have a meal or a look-see at the famed artists’ hangout, the restaurant Hôtel Baudy (open March-Nov), and don’t miss the Musée des Impressionnismes, just down the road.
Getting There: From Paris' Gare St. Lazare station, take a SNCF train to Vernon-Giverny. At Vernon, the train is met by a shuttle bus to the Claude Monet Foundation. Taxis and bikes are also available.

AU REVOIR VAN GOGH
Auvers-sur-Oise

Van Gogh,
Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption

Auvers-sur-Oise is a really charming town where Vincent van Gogh sadly spent the last months of his life. He moved here in May 1890 and did some eighty paintings. Markers throughout the town indicate Van Gogh-related points of interest and the sites he painted such as the church Notre-Dame-de-l'Assomption and the City Hall. At the Château d'Auvers (the kitschiest museum you’ll ever visit), experience French life at the time of the Impressionists. Pay homage to Van Gogh at the room he occupied in the Auberge Ravoux. At the cemetery, weep over his grave and the sad irony of the penniless painter, now considered the most popular artist in the world.
Getting There: From Paris' Gare du Nord station, take the RER or SNCF train in the direction of Pontoise or Valmondois, with a transfer to Auvers-sur-Oise. (On Saturdays & Sundays, April to November, there’s a direct train, H line.)

RODIN’S COUNTRY HIDEAWAY
Musée Rodin - Meudon
Villa des Brillants
19 Avenue Auguste Rodin, Meudon (Open: Spring-Fall, Free)

Rodin, The Thinker

The sculptor Auguste Rodin moved to Meudon Val Fleury in 1893. While he continued to go to his Parisian studio, he did a lot of creative work here. The museum is actually the villa where he lived and the studio where he worked, set in a beautiful park. Today, only a few rooms in the villa are open to the public, but the atelier is filled with spectacular casts of important pieces such as The Burghers of Calais and The Gates of Hell. Out front, The Thinker fittingly presides over Rodin’s tomb. This lovely spot, perched on a hill overlooking the Parc de St. Cloud and the Seine, is the perfect setting for a picnic on a nice day.
Getting There: From Paris, take RER (C) in the direction of Versailles Rive Gauche to Meudon Val Fleury. Then, from the station, take bus #169 (Paul Bert stop). It’s a walk uphill from there.

RODIN'S MUSE FINALLY GETS HER DUE
Musée Camille Claudel
10 rue Gustave Flaubert, Nogent-sur-Seine
www.museecamilleclaudel.fr  (Open: All year. Fee.)

Claudel, Femme Accroupie

This new museum is the first in France to be dedicated to a woman artist. Recognition a long time in coming for an artist who spent most of her career trying to assert her own creativity and independence from Rodin. Certainly in the 19th-century, Camille Claudel was regarded more for being Rodin's student, studio assistant, collaborator, muse, model, and mistress--rather than a sculptor in her own right. But, it was in Nogent-sur-Seine as a young girl that her talent was first recognized and encouraged by the well-known sculptor Alfred Boucher. Boucher then asked Rodin to take her on as a student and the rest is history. As to the museum, works by other 19th-century sculptors who taught or influenced Claudel are displayed in the large first floor galleries in the modern section of the building. Oddly enough, Claudel's own works are relegated to the 2nd floor in the old section that was once the Claudels' family home.
Flaubert Fans: Flaubert's father's family was from Nogent-sur-Seine. His novel L'Éducation Sentimentale (Sentimental Education) is set here. At the tourist office (5 rue Saint Epoing), pick up a brochure with a map of highlights, "Sur Les Pas de Flaubert." 
Getting There: From Paris' Gare de l’Est station, take a SNCF train to Nogent-sur-Seine (about an hour). The museum is a 10-minute walk from the station.

DA VINCI SLEPT HERE
Château du Clos Lucé
2 Rue du Clos Lucé, Amboise, Val de Loire www.vinci-closluce.com (Open: All year. Fee.)

Da Vinci model at Clos Lucé

Long before any artist hopped on a train, the master of them all--Leonardo da Vinci--loaded his painting supplies and a few canvases onto a mule for the journey from Italy to France. Da Vinci came to the château at Amboise in the Loire Valley on the invitation of King François 1, a major fan. The king told Da Vinci he was "free to think, dream, and work." (It's the reason the Mona Lisa is in the Louvre.) You can visit the rooms where Da Vinci worked the last years of his life and view maquettes of his ingenious machines. The château is surrounded by a magnificent park with life-size models of many of Da Vinci's futuristic inventions that only became realities some 400 years later.
Getting There: From Paris' Gare Montparnasse station, take the TGV train to St Pierre des Corps. (An hour, plus a 20-minute taxi ride or local train connection to Amboise.) Or, take a 2-hour train, direct to Amboise from Paris' Gare Austerlitz.

Paris has six train stations, each serving specific regions. (There’s a rhyme and reason to it, but it often seems completely arbitrary!) However, you can do itinerary and timetable searches for all these trips before leaving the comfort of your home on Transilien or Rail Europe. Most of these lovely places, and 5 other artsy spots, are best visited in the spring and summer (some are only open from March to November), so book your flights to Paris now! 

[Editor's Note: A version of this article first appeared on Frommers.com]

Part II: 7 Great Places to Hear Cool Jazz on a Budget in NYC

By Jacquelin Carnegie - (New York, NY) Jazz clubs are not the only place to hear great music. In NYC, there are several unique venues to enjoy jazz on a budget.

(photo: Evi Abeler)

UNIQUE JAZZ VENUES

Saint Peter’s Church
619 Lexington Ave, at 54th St; Tel: 212-935-2200; www.saintpeters.org
Saint Peter’s Church is a sanctuary for jazz! There's a Jazz Vespers (Sundays, 5pm, Free) and midday Jazz on the Plaza in the summertime (July thru early Sept; Thursdays, 12:30pm-1:30pm, Cost: donation).

Louis Armstrong House Museum
34-56 107th St, Corona, Queens; Tel: 718/478-8274; www.louisarmstronghouse.org
Any jazz lover should make a pilgrimage to the house "Satchmo" lived in from 1943 until his death in 1971 in this working-class, Queens neighborhood. An added treat is the Summer Concert Series in the magnificent garden. With the addition of the new Louis Armstrong Center, just across the street, there will be year-round events.

Lucky Dogs Jazz Band with "Satchmo"

Jazz Foundation of America

- Local 802, Monday Night Jam

(Mondays: 7-9:30pm, be sure to check the calendar; Free. Local 802, 322 West 48th St.)

For the past 30+ years, the Jazz Foundation of America has helped keep jazz & blues alive by aiding musicians in-need. This includes musicians who've played with everyone from Duke Ellington and Billie Holiday to Jimi Hendrix and The Rolling Stones. Usually, on Monday nights, you can hear some of these greats, along with up-&-comers, jam for free!

Nick Hempton

The National Jazz Museum in Harlem
58 West 129th St; Tel: 212/348-8300; www.jmih.org 

The Jazz Museum offers concerts, educational exhibits, and several interesting programs such as “Jazz for Curious Listeners” and “Harlem Speaks,” an interview series; it's definitely worth a visit. The NJMH also does events in conjunction with the Jazz Foundation & Jazz at Lincoln Center.

AFFORDABLE JAZZ AT LINCOLN CENTER & JUILLIARD

Jazz at Lincoln Center
Frederick P. Rose Hall, Broadway at 60th St; www.jazz.org
There are several affordable ways to enjoy jazz at this great venue: Dizzy’s Club - Late Night Session ($15, after 11pm); Hot Seats ($10) for select concerts in the Rose Theater; The Appel Room ($10 for students); Listening Parties - (Free) Listen to new jazz albums with the

Dizzy's Club (photo: Frank Stewart)

performers who recorded them or learn about late, great jazz artists.
Call: 212-258-9800 to find out about more JALC free/cheap events.

The Juilliard School (Tel: 212/769-7406; juilliard.edu) Throughout the school year, Juilliard offers many, free & affordable jazz concerts by The Juilliard Jazz Orchestra and the Juilliard Jazz Ensembles in Paul Hall (155 West 65th St) and other venues. Since most Juilliard grads go on to fame-and-fortune, hear them now for free! (Live Stream some concerts.)
FREE SUMMER JAZZ FESTIVALS IN NYC

Charlie Parker Jazz Festival (August), Jazz Mobile (July & August) & Swing in the Streets JALC (46th St & Broadway, 5pm, Thursdays thru Sept.)

Jazz Nights in NYC: Jazz fans check out gigs for the fabulous sax players Nick Hempton and his band and the great Mike DiRubbo. 
Find out about other festivals and New York City's jazz scene all year long from: Hot House Jazz & The New York City Jazz Record.

(Even post-COVID, please double check all event listings before heading out!)