Concierge Confessions: 15 Top Sightseeing Tips in Washington, DC

By Jacquelin Carnegie

(photo: National Cherry Blossom Festival)

Visiting The White House and the Smithsonian Museums is already on your itinerary. But these great sightseeing tips come from the best kept secret in the nation’s capital—Les Clefs d'Or hotel concierges. (A pin of crossed gold keys on a concierge’s lapel means you’re getting advice from a seasoned professional.) Les Clefs d'Or concierges pride themselves on really knowing their cities—the best sights, events, restaurants, etc.—so you can get the most out of your visit. These wonderful activities are some of their top DC recommendations: 

CHEAPEST RIDES TO ALL THE DC SIGHTS
Best Ways to Get Around Downtown DC 
The Metro & Metrobus are great ways to get to all the cultural and entertainment sights in the DC city center. They run frequently, so get SmarTrip. There's also a Capitol Bikeshare program and, of course, Hop-On-Hop-Off buses. They may be touristy, but are an excellent way to get acclimated.

DC MUSEUMS NOT TO BE MISSED
The Smithsonian Institution in DC, includes some 19 museums, galleries and the National Zoo! All are amazing and worth visiting, especially since they’re all free. 
Additionally, there are numerous other gems such as:

(photo: Hillwood Estate)

Fabulous Fabric: The Textile Museum
(701 21st St, NW; https://museum.gwu.edu)
Established in 1925, the collection features fabulous antique and contemporary textile arts such as oriental rugs, American quilts, silk clothing, and cotton fabrics. It's now part of the George Washington University Museum at Foggy Bottom.
First in Modern Art: The Phillips Collection
(1600 21st Street NW; www.phillipscollection.org)
Considered America’s first modern art museum, opened in 1921, with a great collection, located in the lovely Dupont Circle neighborhood. 

Estate Envy: Hillwood Estate - Museum & Gardens
(4155 Linnean Ave., NW; www.hillwoodmuseum.org)
Be sure to plan at least half a day to visit the magnificent Marjorie Merriweather Post mansion-museum & gardens; there’s a nice café, too.

EAT, PRAY, DRINK YOUR WAY AROUND DC
Best Hail Mary: Dahlgren Chapel of the Sacred Heart

Georgetown University Campus (37th & O St. NW, Healy 113)
Of the seven chapels on the Georgetown campus, the beautiful Dahlgren Chapel, built in 1893, is the primary house of worship for the campus’ Catholic community. After Mass, head over to The Tombs restaurant for more libations.

Dahlgren Chapel (photo: Georgetown University)

Best Bloody Mary: The Tombs 

(1226 36th St. NW; Tel: 202/337-6668; www.tombs.com) 
After you’ve repented, enjoy the best Bloody Mary in town or Sunday brunch at this popular Georgetown hangout in the basement of the 1789 Restaurant.
Best Combo – Books & Beer: Kramerbooks
(1517 Connecticut Ave. NW; Tel: 202/387-1400; www.kramers.com)
Pick up the latest bestseller, a cold one & a tasty snack all at this wonderful, independent bookstore and resto-bar.

SIGHTSEE DC BY BIKE OR BOAT
Best Sightseeing on Wheels: Bike Tours
Unlimited Biking - Learn some interesting history and get unique DC touring tips as well as a nice workout on these informative bike tours of Washington, DC & Alexandria, VA. Or, just rent a bike to explore the sights on your own.
Great Recreation: Fletcher's Boathouse - Boat & Bike rental 

(4940 Canal Rd NW; www.fletcherscove.com; Open March-Nov)
Located in Georgetown on a cove along the Potomac River, Fletcher’s Boathouse has provided a bit of nature and recreation for DC residents, including several Presidents, since the 1850s. Go for a leisurely boat, canoe or kayak ride, or bike along the C&O Canal towpath.

C&O Canal Boat (photo: National Park foundation)

Cool Canal Boat Rides: C&O Canal 

(Georgetown Visitor Center, 1057 Thomas Jefferson St. NW;  https://www.nps.gov/choh)

The Chesapeake & Ohio Canal was built between 1828-1850 to transport agricultural goods to market. Today, it’s a National Historical Park that starts in Georgetown and runs 184.5 miles. You can walk or bike along the towpath. Or, go on a fascinating Canal Boat Tour to learn all about the history of life on the canal in mid-19th-century America. (Spring/Summer) 

GET YOUR FILL OF DC GARDENS & HISTORY
Most Amazing Garden: The Bishop’s Garden - National Cathedral
(3101 Wisconsin Ave. NW; https://cathedral.org/gardens)

Bishop's Garden (photo: All Hallows Guild)

Most people tour the stunning National Cathedral without stopping to admire the gardens on 59-acres of wooded, landscaped grounds. The Bishop’s Garden, planned by Frederick Law Olmsted, Jr., is a beautiful, medieval-style garden planted with fruit trees, roses, perennial flowering plants and herbs. Winding stone paths, a gazebo, a 9th-century baptismal font and other statuary add to the charm.
Oldest House: The Old Stone House

(3051 M St. NW, Georgetown; https://www.nps.gov) 

Built by cabinetmaker Christopher Layman in 1765, this house in Georgetown is considered the oldest building in Washington, DC. Take a trip back to the 18th century by touring the period rooms, when open. Be sure to admire the English garden out back.

BEST PLACES TO STAY IN DC
The Mayflower Hotel, Marriott (1127 Connecticut Ave. NW; https://tinyurl.com/uvfx8bke) - Opened in 1925, this 4-diamond, luxury hotel near Dupont Circle is one of the Historic Hotels of America. President Harry Truman called it the "second best address" in DC.
The Willard (1401 Pennsylvania Ave. NW; washington.intercontinental.com) - On the National Register of Historic Places, this magnificent hotel has been at the center of DC’s social and political scene since 1818; a favorite of President Ulysses S. Grant.

 Washington Monument (photo: National Cherry Blossom Festival)

Hotel Monaco, Kimpton (700 F St. NW; https://www.monaco-dc.com) - This luxury, boutique hotel is in the original US General Post Office building, a registered National Landmark.
The Ritz Carlton (1150 22nd St. NW; https://www.ritzcarlton.com) - Relax in sophisticated elegance in the heart of downtown DC.

DON’T MISS DC’S FAB FESTIVALS
The Best of the Fests: Some highlights - National Cherry Blossom Festival (March-April); DC Jazz Fest (Labor Day weekend) and the terrific & unique Smithsonian Folklife Festival (June-July) on the National Mall; a great way to celebrate the 4th of July! There is so much to explore from cool neighborhoods to national monuments, plus theaters, jazz clubs, and entertainment venues; one visit just won’t be enough!

Marvelous Mosaic: 5+ Great Ways to Celebrate Irish Culture & St. Paddy’s Day in NYC

By Jacquelin Carnegie – (New York, NY)

Every March, it’s time to dig out that bright green sweater and brace yourself for gallons of green beer, rowdy teenagers, and lousy weather--it's Saint Paddy’s Day in New York! But, Irish culture is so rich and varied, it should be celebrated for more than just one day! Here are some great ways to do so all year long in New York:

Come for The Craic

Irish Arts Center 

Celtic AppalachianCelebration II 

(photo: Brandilyn Davidson & Erin Baiano)

726 11th Ave (btw 51-52 St), Tel: 212/757-3318; www.irishartscenter.org

The IAC is a treasure-trove of Irish cultural activities. Throughout the year, attend concerts, dance performances, plays, films, lectures or readings, and be sure to enjoy “the craic” (great conversation). If you’re bitten by the Irish bug, the IAC also offers classes for children and adults in Irish music, dance, language, and history. Great annual events include: St. Patrick's Day Open House (Free): Celebrate Irish music & dance with performances and craft workshops for the whole family. Book Day: Snag a free book by a great Irish or Irish-American author.

Discover Irish Playwrights

Donnybrook! (photo: Carol Rosegg)

The Irish Repertory Theatre

132 West 22nd St; Tel: 212/727-2737; www.irishrep.org

The Irish Rep features plays and musicals by well-known and emerging Irish and Irish-American playwrights. 

Get Some Culture

American Irish Historical Society

991 Fifth Ave., at 80th St.; Tel: 212/288-2263, www.aihs.org 

Founded in 1897, the AIHS celebrates the Irish-American experience with a focus on contemporary Irish culture. Events range from talks to art exhibits to readings and concerts on the harp, piano, penny whistle, and bodhrán. All take place in AIHS’ magnificent Beaux-Arts townhouse.
Thrill to the Music

In New York, there are Irish musicians playing everything from traditional, to rock to pop. No matter what your taste, there’s a band for you.
Paddy Reilly's Music Bar (519 2^nd Ave., at 29^th St.; Tel: 212/686-1210; www.paddyreillysmusicbar.us): In NYC, there’s an Irish pub on almost every corner, but this is one of the best with great Irish music; Black 47 got their start here.

New in Town: Emmet Cahill the hottest Irish tenor and lead singer of the fab Celtic Thunder group.

Old Favorites: For 25 years, Black 47 was “Rockin’ The Bronx,” giving voice to the joy and the sorrow of all the Irish immigrants who’ve found a second home on Bainbridge Avenue and in other New York boroughs. Band leader Larry Kirwan now does solo gigs with a St. Patrick's Day concert. 

Some years, The Celtic Tenors, doing traditional songs, and The Saw Doctors, with their folk-rock vibe, roll into town. 

Larry Kirwan of Black 47

Sober St. Patrick’s Day® - This is a wonderful way to enjoy the sprit of the day with great Irish entertainment--acclaimed musicians, dancers, singers, comedians--but without the rowdy drunks.

Worship in Gaelic

The Basilica of St. Patrick's Old Cathedral

263 Mulberry St, corner of Mott & Prince, Tel: 212-226-8075; www.oldcathedral.org
Long before people worshiped at Saint Patrick's Cathedral (1879), on Fifth Avenue and 50^th St., they came here to the city's first Cathedral Church, founded in 1809. Today, Mass is given in English, Spanish, Chinese, and, on occasion, in the Irish language, Gaelic. Throughout the year, there are lovely concerts and other cultural offerings.

 (photo: Laura_Mexico)

Saint Patrick's Day Parade

The first St. Patrick's Day Parade in New York was held in 1762, when Irish ex-patriots and Irish soldiers marched through the city. Every year, the Parade heads up Fifth Avenue, from 44th St to 86th St.

Did you know that there are other regions, referred to as "Celtic Nations," that share this heritage with Ireland: Brittany, France; Wales; Scotland; the Isle of Man & Cornwall.

(Often, Brittany's BZH NY society invites musicians from Brittany to perform and celebrate St. Patrick's Day in New York.)

5 Not-To-Be-Missed Museums In Paris

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Paris has incredible museums. You already know about the wonderful Louvre and the Musee d‘Orsay, but there are also terrific, smaller museums that are not to be missed. Check out these gems.

Parisian Perspective

Musée Carnavalet 

23 rue de Sevignée; http://www.carnavalet.paris.fr; 3rd arrondissement, Metro: Chemin Vert or Saint Paul (Closed Mondays; Free) - Reopened, after a major renovation

Visiting this marvelous, funky museum is like walking through a history book of the story of Paris. It takes you step-by-step through the city’s development from prehistory, when it was the village of Lutèce, through Roman times, the Renaissance, the French Revolution, the Belle Epoque, and on to today. Be sure to start at the beginning, to get the full effect. After you’ve traveled through time, relax in the beautiful, courtyard gardens. App: "Musée Carnavalet" - Discover Paris' history with the aid of the museum App (in 6 languages).

Magnificent Masterpieces

Musée Jacquemart-André 

158 Blvd Haussmann; https://www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com; 8th arrondissement, Metro: Miromesnil or Saint Philippe du Roule (Open daily, Fee.) 

This 19th-century mansion is as much a work of art as the masterpieces it houses. Edouard André, from a prominent banking family, and his artist wife, Nélie Jacquemart, had a passion for collecting art. They traveled extensively gathering paintings, sculpture, tapestries, furniture, and objects d’art. Their collection includes works by Botticelli, Chardin, Fragonard, Mantegna, Rembrandt & Van Dyck. There’s even a room devoted entirely to Renaissance paintings. This sumptuously-decorated museum gives you a glimpse into the elegant lifestyle of the Belle Epoque. There's also a sumptuous café with a terrace overlooking the inner courtyard. App: "Jacquemart-André Museum"

Sensational Sculpture

Musée Bourdelle

18 rue Antoine Bourdelle; http://www.bourdelle.paris.fr; 15th arrondissement, Metro: Montparnasse-Bienvenüe (Closed Mondays; Free; Fee for temp exhibits)

Antoine Bourdelle studied at the Ecole des Beaux Arts in Paris and became an assistant to Rodin in 1893. Bourdelle’s colossal sculptures are on display in his former home, studio and garden, tucked away on a side street in the bustling Montparnasse district. The lovely garden is a great spot to repose after hours of sightseeing; there's also a new café-restaurant. 

Musée Zadkine 

100 bis, rue d'Assas; http://www.zadkine.paris.fr; 6th arrondissement, Metro: Vavin or Notre Dame des Champs (Closed Mondays; Free; Fee for temp exhibits)

Russian sculptor Ossip Zadkine came to Paris in the early 1900s. He lived and worked in this tranquil spot near the Jardin de Luxembourg from 1928 to 1967. The collection, displayed in his former atelier and a little garden, features abstract sculptures along with paintings, drawings, tapestries, and photos documenting the work.

Architectural Artistry

Fondation Le Corbusier 

8-10 Square du Docteur Blanche; http://www.fondationlecorbusier.fr;

16th arrondissement, Metro: Jasmin or Michel-Ange - Auteuil (Closed Sundays & Monday mornings; Fee)

For lovers of architecture and modern design, it’s worth a trip to these beautifully-preserved structures by the famous architect Le Corbusier (Charles-Édouard Jeanneret-Gris). In a cul-de-sac off Rue du Docteur Blanche, there are two houses, built in 1924: 

Maison La Roche (https://bit.ly/1rv5tZR, open to visitors) - This is a wonderful example of Le Corrbusier’s work. Commissioned by Raoul La Roche, who wanted a house with a gallery to display his art collection. Maison Jeanneret (library visits by appointment only) houses the Foundation. 

Appartement de Le Corbusier (24 rue Nungesser et Coli; https://bit.ly/1k3Ogev; 16th arrondissement, Metro: Michel-Ange – Molitor or Porte d'Auteuil; One metro stop or a 20 minute walk from the Foundation) - Le Corbusier lived and worked in this apartment and studio on the top floors of Immeuble Molitor from about 1934 until his death in 1965. The light-filled, vaulted space is still decorated with his personal belongings; a treat for Le Corbusier aficionados.

***

Editor’s Note: 1) Some COVID protocols may still apply such as mask-wearing & advanced ticket purchase. Be sure to check each museum's website. 2) Get the most out of your upcoming visit with this guide: THE ARTSY VOYAGER: 101 Artsy & Cool Things To Do in Paris https://amzn.to/38J45Bh

5+ Fantastic Reasons To Visit Lošinj Island, Croatia

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Losinj Island (photo: Malden Scerbe)

Lošinj is an island in the north of Croatia. If you're interested in vacationing in Paradise, this is the spot. Ocean breezes blow softly while the scent of pine trees and aromatic plants fills the air. Hapsburg Royalty put Lošinj "on the map" in the late 1880s when they came here to be rejuvenated by the fresh air and medicinal plants. Luckily, those revitalizing options are still available today:
Relax Royally
For a small island, there is plenty to do. But, quite frankly, Lošinj is so beautiful that if you never even moved from your lounge chair--looking out over the stunning Adriatic Sea--you'd still have a marvelous time. But, since Lošinj is known for its superlative Spa programs, might as well get a massage and a facial. Almost every hotel has its own spa; many use only natural products--made from local ingredients--in their treatments.

Osor (photo: JCarnegie)

Welcome Wellness

Since the 1800s, people have been coming to Lošinj Island for a natural health cure. The combination of a mild climate, soothing waters, and fragrant air is considered beneficial to one's overall health and good for respiratory problems. In addition to the fabulous spa treatments, Lošinj offers a range of Health programs--from weight loss and stress reduction to regimes for more serious ailments--all overseen by the capable and charming Dr. Anamarija Margan Šulc.

Explore Quaint Villages

Herb garden (photo: JCarnegie)

While just relaxing is wonderful, there are lovely little villages to explore with a rich history and picturesque surroundings. There are ancient Roman towns (and ruins), little hamlets of traditional stone houses, and areas with grand villas from the 19th-century heyday when Lošinj was a major shipbuilding center and then a seaside health resort for European elites. Stroll the lovely, port towns of Mali Lošinj, Veli Lošinj, and Nerezine on Lošinj. And, visit Osor and Lubenice on the neighboring island of Cres.

Mali Losinj

Sail Away for the Day
Discover the area around Lošinj Island on sailing excursions: Sail to a secluded cove for a swim, then dine in a quaint seaside restaurant. Visit small nearby islands such as Ilovik, Susak, and Unije. Venture into the Lošinj dolphin reserve, then stop by the Blue World Marine Education Centre to learn more about the ecological efforts in the area.

Be Entertained Locally
There's plenty to keep you entertained from a local brass band playing in Nerezine's town square to world-class musicians at the Osor Musical Evenings (Osorske Glazbene Večeri, July-Aug). There are also several fun Festivals: International Bagpipe Festival (May), Festival of Wind Orchestras & Brass Band Festival (June), Folk Festivals (July), along with a Food Festival (April) and Open-Air Photography Exhibition (May).

Get a Peek at the Past
There are a number of small museums that illuminate Lošinj's fascinating past: Fritzi Palace, Lošinj Museum. An ancient Greek sculpture was found in the waters off Lošinj; Apoxyomenos (The Scraper, an athlete scraping dirt and oil off his body) has been painstakingly restored and is on display here. Osor Archaeological Collection: A branch of the Lošinj Museum, it features early Christian and Medieval artifacts, along with an incredible collection of ancient Roman coins. The little town of Osor is like an open-air museum, filled with sculptures of notable composers done by acclaimed Croatian sculptors.

Dine Divinely
Lošinj's local culinary delights are part of the pleasure of vacationing here. Most restaurants overlook the water, so you can enjoy stunning views along with a delicious meal. Try everything from fresh seafood specialties to grilled lamb seasoned with local spices. And, be sure to sample the exceptional Croatian wines, olive oils, and local sage honey. Dine in one of these lovely spots: Lanterna Grill, Veli žal, & Diana on Lošinj; Konoba Dalmatinka on Ilovik. And, prepare your palates for the Lošinj Cuisine Festival (April).

Veli Losinj (photo: JCarnegie)

Where To Stay: There is every kind of accommodation from camping sites to guesthouses to 5-star hotels. Some of the loveliest places are on beautiful Čikat Bay. Choose from old-world charm or thoroughly-modern chic. The high-season runs from March through September, but it's lovely there all year-round.

Hotel Bellevue: This stunning, very-modern 5-star hotel on Čikat Bay is ideal. In addition to the Adriatic, there are 3 swimming pools, a terrific spa, good restaurants, and a helpful, friendly staff; plus, while totally secluded, it's just a stone's throw from Mali Lošinj's lovely town center.

Lubenice (photo: JCarnegie)

Getting There: Lošinj is in the north of Croatia, near Venice, Italy. It's not the easiest destination to reach, but well worth the trip. One of the most direct ways is to fly Delta to Venice, then a short hop to Lošinj. Other options include flights to nearby airports followed by car or bus & ferry trips.
Editor's Note: While Lošinj is indeed a magical place, if you are sensitive to cigarette smoke be aware that, while Croatia has anti-smoking laws, people smoke everywhere. The hotel rooms are smoke-free, but guests smoke on the balconies, at the beach, and at outdoor bars & restaurants.