Marvelous Mosaic: 5+ Great Ways to Celebrate Irish Culture & St. Paddy’s Day in NYC

By Jacquelin Carnegie – (New York, NY)

Every March, it’s time to dig out that bright green sweater and brace yourself for gallons of green beer, rowdy teenagers, and lousy weather--it's Saint Paddy’s Day in New York! But, Irish culture is so rich and varied, it should be celebrated for more than just one day! Here are some great ways to do so all year long in New York:

Come for The Craic

Irish Arts Center 

Celtic AppalachianCelebration II 

(photo: Brandilyn Davidson & Erin Baiano)

726 11th Ave (btw 51-52 St), Tel: 212/757-3318; www.irishartscenter.org

The IAC is a treasure-trove of Irish cultural activities. Throughout the year, attend concerts, dance performances, plays, films, lectures or readings, and be sure to enjoy “the craic” (great conversation). If you’re bitten by the Irish bug, the IAC also offers classes for children and adults in Irish music, dance, language, and history. Great annual events include: St. Patrick's Day Open House (Free): Celebrate Irish music & dance with performances and craft workshops for the whole family. Book Day: Snag a free book by a great Irish or Irish-American author.

Discover Irish Playwrights

Donnybrook! (photo: Carol Rosegg)

The Irish Repertory Theatre

132 West 22nd St; Tel: 212/727-2737; www.irishrep.org

The Irish Rep features plays and musicals by well-known and emerging Irish and Irish-American playwrights. 

Get Some Culture

American Irish Historical Society

991 Fifth Ave., at 80th St.; Tel: 212/288-2263, www.aihs.org 

Founded in 1897, the AIHS celebrates the Irish-American experience with a focus on contemporary Irish culture. Events range from talks to art exhibits to readings and concerts on the harp, piano, penny whistle, and bodhrán. All take place in AIHS’ magnificent Beaux-Arts townhouse.
Thrill to the Music

In New York, there are Irish musicians playing everything from traditional, to rock to pop. No matter what your taste, there’s a band for you.
Paddy Reilly's Music Bar (519 2^nd Ave., at 29^th St.; Tel: 212/686-1210; www.paddyreillysmusicbar.us): In NYC, there’s an Irish pub on almost every corner, but this is one of the best with great Irish music; Black 47 got their start here.

New in Town: Emmet Cahill the hottest Irish tenor and lead singer of the fab Celtic Thunder group.

Old Favorites: For 25 years, Black 47 was “Rockin’ The Bronx,” giving voice to the joy and the sorrow of all the Irish immigrants who’ve found a second home on Bainbridge Avenue and in other New York boroughs. Band leader Larry Kirwan now does solo gigs with a St. Patrick's Day concert. 

Some years, The Celtic Tenors, doing traditional songs, and The Saw Doctors, with their folk-rock vibe, roll into town. 

Larry Kirwan of Black 47

Sober St. Patrick’s Day® - This is a wonderful way to enjoy the sprit of the day with great Irish entertainment--acclaimed musicians, dancers, singers, comedians--but without the rowdy drunks.

Worship in Gaelic

The Basilica of St. Patrick's Old Cathedral

263 Mulberry St, corner of Mott & Prince, Tel: 212-226-8075; www.oldcathedral.org
Long before people worshiped at Saint Patrick's Cathedral (1879), on Fifth Avenue and 50^th St., they came here to the city's first Cathedral Church, founded in 1809. Today, Mass is given in English, Spanish, Chinese, and, on occasion, in the Irish language, Gaelic. Throughout the year, there are lovely concerts and other cultural offerings.

 (photo: Laura_Mexico)

Saint Patrick's Day Parade

The first St. Patrick's Day Parade in New York was held in 1762, when Irish ex-patriots and Irish soldiers marched through the city. Every year, the Parade heads up Fifth Avenue, from 44th St to 86th St.

Did you know that there are other regions, referred to as "Celtic Nations," that share this heritage with Ireland: Brittany, France; Wales; Scotland; the Isle of Man & Cornwall.

(Often, Brittany's BZH NY society invites musicians from Brittany to perform and celebrate St. Patrick's Day in New York.)

5 Not-To-Be-Missed Museums In Paris

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Paris has incredible museums. You already know about the wonderful Louvre and the Musee d‘Orsay, but there are also terrific, smaller museums that are not to be missed. Check out these gems.

Parisian Perspective

Musée Carnavalet 

23 rue de Sevignée; http://www.carnavalet.paris.fr; 3rd arrondissement, Metro: Chemin Vert or Saint Paul (Closed Mondays; Free) - Reopened, after a major renovation

Visiting this marvelous, funky museum is like walking through a history book of the story of Paris. It takes you step-by-step through the city’s development from prehistory, when it was the village of Lutèce, through Roman times, the Renaissance, the French Revolution, the Belle Epoque, and on to today. Be sure to start at the beginning, to get the full effect. After you’ve traveled through time, relax in the beautiful, courtyard gardens. App: "Musée Carnavalet" - Discover Paris' history with the aid of the museum App (in 6 languages).

Magnificent Masterpieces

Musée Jacquemart-André 

158 Blvd Haussmann; https://www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com; 8th arrondissement, Metro: Miromesnil or Saint Philippe du Roule (Open daily, Fee.) 

This 19th-century mansion is as much a work of art as the masterpieces it houses. Edouard André, from a prominent banking family, and his artist wife, Nélie Jacquemart, had a passion for collecting art. They traveled extensively gathering paintings, sculpture, tapestries, furniture, and objects d’art. Their collection includes works by Botticelli, Chardin, Fragonard, Mantegna, Rembrandt & Van Dyck. There’s even a room devoted entirely to Renaissance paintings. This sumptuously-decorated museum gives you a glimpse into the elegant lifestyle of the Belle Epoque. There's also a sumptuous café with a terrace overlooking the inner courtyard. App: "Jacquemart-André Museum"

Sensational Sculpture

Musée Bourdelle

18 rue Antoine Bourdelle; http://www.bourdelle.paris.fr; 15th arrondissement, Metro: Montparnasse-Bienvenüe (Closed Mondays; Free; Fee for temp exhibits)

Antoine Bourdelle studied at the Ecole des Beaux Arts in Paris and became an assistant to Rodin in 1893. Bourdelle’s colossal sculptures are on display in his former home, studio and garden, tucked away on a side street in the bustling Montparnasse district. The lovely garden is a great spot to repose after hours of sightseeing; there's also a new café-restaurant. 

Musée Zadkine 

100 bis, rue d'Assas; http://www.zadkine.paris.fr; 6th arrondissement, Metro: Vavin or Notre Dame des Champs (Closed Mondays; Free; Fee for temp exhibits)

Russian sculptor Ossip Zadkine came to Paris in the early 1900s. He lived and worked in this tranquil spot near the Jardin de Luxembourg from 1928 to 1967. The collection, displayed in his former atelier and a little garden, features abstract sculptures along with paintings, drawings, tapestries, and photos documenting the work.

Architectural Artistry

Fondation Le Corbusier 

8-10 Square du Docteur Blanche; http://www.fondationlecorbusier.fr;

16th arrondissement, Metro: Jasmin or Michel-Ange - Auteuil (Closed Sundays & Monday mornings; Fee)

For lovers of architecture and modern design, it’s worth a trip to these beautifully-preserved structures by the famous architect Le Corbusier (Charles-Édouard Jeanneret-Gris). In a cul-de-sac off Rue du Docteur Blanche, there are two houses, built in 1924: 

Maison La Roche (https://bit.ly/1rv5tZR, open to visitors) - This is a wonderful example of Le Corrbusier’s work. Commissioned by Raoul La Roche, who wanted a house with a gallery to display his art collection. Maison Jeanneret (library visits by appointment only) houses the Foundation. 

Appartement de Le Corbusier (24 rue Nungesser et Coli; https://bit.ly/1k3Ogev; 16th arrondissement, Metro: Michel-Ange – Molitor or Porte d'Auteuil; One metro stop or a 20 minute walk from the Foundation) - Le Corbusier lived and worked in this apartment and studio on the top floors of Immeuble Molitor from about 1934 until his death in 1965. The light-filled, vaulted space is still decorated with his personal belongings; a treat for Le Corbusier aficionados.

***

Editor’s Note: 1) Some COVID protocols may still apply such as mask-wearing & advanced ticket purchase. Be sure to check each museum's website. 2) Get the most out of your upcoming visit with this guide: THE ARTSY VOYAGER: 101 Artsy & Cool Things To Do in Paris https://amzn.to/38J45Bh

5+ Fantastic Reasons To Visit Lošinj Island, Croatia

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Losinj Island (photo: Malden Scerbe)

Lošinj is an island in the north of Croatia. If you're interested in vacationing in Paradise, this is the spot. Ocean breezes blow softly while the scent of pine trees and aromatic plants fills the air. Hapsburg Royalty put Lošinj "on the map" in the late 1880s when they came here to be rejuvenated by the fresh air and medicinal plants. Luckily, those revitalizing options are still available today:
Relax Royally
For a small island, there is plenty to do. But, quite frankly, Lošinj is so beautiful that if you never even moved from your lounge chair--looking out over the stunning Adriatic Sea--you'd still have a marvelous time. But, since Lošinj is known for its superlative Spa programs, might as well get a massage and a facial. Almost every hotel has its own spa; many use only natural products--made from local ingredients--in their treatments.

Osor (photo: JCarnegie)

Welcome Wellness

Since the 1800s, people have been coming to Lošinj Island for a natural health cure. The combination of a mild climate, soothing waters, and fragrant air is considered beneficial to one's overall health and good for respiratory problems. In addition to the fabulous spa treatments, Lošinj offers a range of Health programs--from weight loss and stress reduction to regimes for more serious ailments--all overseen by the capable and charming Dr. Anamarija Margan Šulc.

Explore Quaint Villages

Herb garden (photo: JCarnegie)

While just relaxing is wonderful, there are lovely little villages to explore with a rich history and picturesque surroundings. There are ancient Roman towns (and ruins), little hamlets of traditional stone houses, and areas with grand villas from the 19th-century heyday when Lošinj was a major shipbuilding center and then a seaside health resort for European elites. Stroll the lovely, port towns of Mali Lošinj, Veli Lošinj, and Nerezine on Lošinj. And, visit Osor and Lubenice on the neighboring island of Cres.

Mali Losinj

Sail Away for the Day
Discover the area around Lošinj Island on sailing excursions: Sail to a secluded cove for a swim, then dine in a quaint seaside restaurant. Visit small nearby islands such as Ilovik, Susak, and Unije. Venture into the Lošinj dolphin reserve, then stop by the Blue World Marine Education Centre to learn more about the ecological efforts in the area.

Be Entertained Locally
There's plenty to keep you entertained from a local brass band playing in Nerezine's town square to world-class musicians at the Osor Musical Evenings (Osorske Glazbene Večeri, July-Aug). There are also several fun Festivals: International Bagpipe Festival (May), Festival of Wind Orchestras & Brass Band Festival (June), Folk Festivals (July), along with a Food Festival (April) and Open-Air Photography Exhibition (May).

Get a Peek at the Past
There are a number of small museums that illuminate Lošinj's fascinating past: Fritzi Palace, Lošinj Museum. An ancient Greek sculpture was found in the waters off Lošinj; Apoxyomenos (The Scraper, an athlete scraping dirt and oil off his body) has been painstakingly restored and is on display here. Osor Archaeological Collection: A branch of the Lošinj Museum, it features early Christian and Medieval artifacts, along with an incredible collection of ancient Roman coins. The little town of Osor is like an open-air museum, filled with sculptures of notable composers done by acclaimed Croatian sculptors.

Dine Divinely
Lošinj's local culinary delights are part of the pleasure of vacationing here. Most restaurants overlook the water, so you can enjoy stunning views along with a delicious meal. Try everything from fresh seafood specialties to grilled lamb seasoned with local spices. And, be sure to sample the exceptional Croatian wines, olive oils, and local sage honey. Dine in one of these lovely spots: Lanterna Grill, Veli žal, & Diana on Lošinj; Konoba Dalmatinka on Ilovik. And, prepare your palates for the Lošinj Cuisine Festival (April).

Veli Losinj (photo: JCarnegie)

Where To Stay: There is every kind of accommodation from camping sites to guesthouses to 5-star hotels. Some of the loveliest places are on beautiful Čikat Bay. Choose from old-world charm or thoroughly-modern chic. The high-season runs from March through September, but it's lovely there all year-round.

Hotel Bellevue: This stunning, very-modern 5-star hotel on Čikat Bay is ideal. In addition to the Adriatic, there are 3 swimming pools, a terrific spa, good restaurants, and a helpful, friendly staff; plus, while totally secluded, it's just a stone's throw from Mali Lošinj's lovely town center.

Lubenice (photo: JCarnegie)

Getting There: Lošinj is in the north of Croatia, near Venice, Italy. It's not the easiest destination to reach, but well worth the trip. One of the most direct ways is to fly Delta to Venice, then a short hop to Lošinj. Other options include flights to nearby airports followed by car or bus & ferry trips.
Editor's Note: While Lošinj is indeed a magical place, if you are sensitive to cigarette smoke be aware that, while Croatia has anti-smoking laws, people smoke everywhere. The hotel rooms are smoke-free, but guests smoke on the balconies, at the beach, and at outdoor bars & restaurants.

20+ Artsy & Cool Reasons To Visit Jacksonville, Florida

By Jacquelin Carnegie - (Jacksonville, FL)

Miami gets all the glory but Jacksonville, on the shores of the St. Johns River in North Florida, is well worth discovering. What makes it exciting is all the entrepreneurial activity from new restaurants & breweries to artists-run galleries and unique, cultural events. And, of course, there's the beach! So, come on down to meet the super-friendly locals and explore "Jax."

GET TO KNOW JAX
Jacksonville's "Top to Bottom" Walking Tour
Tel: 904-827-1845; www.AdLibTours.com (Tues 10am)
Start your visit with a walking tour that turns a history lesson into a fun trek of discovery. Local historian Gary Sass and his friendly guides give a great introduction to Jacksonville's history and the arts & culture scene. If you don't feel like walking, take a lovely Art Bike Tour.
DISCOVER JAX'S HISTORIC NEIGHBORHOODS
While the downtown architecture leaves something to be desired, it's surrounded by charming neighborhoods such as Springfield, Riverside, and San Marco with lovely, historic homes. Check them out on house tours:

Springfield

 

Springfield Historic Home Tour

www.sparcouncil.org (May & Dec)
The Springfield neighborhood has beautifully-restored, turn-of-the-century homes: grand Victorians, charming bungalows, & historic family mansions. Plus, such friendly neighbors, you won't want to leave!
Riverside-Avondale Tour of Homes www.riversideavondale.org (April) This picturesque neighborhood with oak-lined streets has over 5,000 historic buildings. Along with million-dollar, waterfront homes, it also has hip hangouts such as Five Points (shopping & nightlife) and Kings Street (gastropubs & breweries). If you can't make the homes' tour, explore on your own. Enjoy First Friday events and, the first weekend of every month, ride around on the Riverside Trolley.

EXPLORE JAX'S ARTSY SIDE
Art Walk jacksonvilleartwalk.com (Monthly, 1st Wed, 5-9pm)
On the first Wednesday evening of each month, Downtown Jax is a whirl of artsy activities. The festivities include live music, arts & crafts vendors, street performers, food trucks, beer tents, and lots of family activities. Also, Downtown Jax's cultural venues stay open late and nearby restaurants and bars offer specials.

Museums It's worth a trip to Jax just for these museums:
Museum of Contemporary Art
333 North Laura St; www.mocajacksonville.org
In the heart of Downtown Jax, MOCA's wonderful collection and exhibits rival major, world-class institutions. In addition to the stunning, contemporary artwork, MOCA has top-notch events such as talks with renowned artists and delightful concerts. 

Cummer Museum of Art & Gardens
829 Riverside Ave; www.cummermuseum.org
This lovely museum in Riverside not only has an impressive art collection, spanning the ages from 2100 B.C. through the 21st century, it has an amazing garden overlooking the river and a nice café.
Museum of Science & History (www.themosh.org) - For both kids & adults. The exhibits are made to inspire interest in the sciences & regional history.

Galleries To start a gallery scene, local artists have taken matters into their own hands:

X. Nihilo

Southlight Gallery 
1 Independence Dr., #113; southlightgallery.com
This collaborative gallery features exceptional, local artists with international acclaim. Check out work by: Tony Wood, Enzo Torcoletti, Pablo Rivera & Grant Ward. Monthly openings coincide with ArtWalk. 

The Art Center & CoRK Arts District (corkartsdistrict.com) - Artists' studios in funky, repurposed warehouses. Jax also has a very active Cultural Council that supports all kinds of artsy special events & spotlights gifted young artists such as Dimelza Broche, Franklin Ratliff & Thony Aiuppy. 

ENJOY JAX'S FABULOUS FESTIVALS
Jacksonville Jazz Festival http://on.fb.me/1Mjqw0S (May)

(artist: Russ Wilson)

The festival kicks off with the Jacksonville Jazz Piano Competition, then free concerts by world-renown musicians. VIP packages for preferred seating and other perks are also available.
Jax PorchFest 

‪jacksonvilleporchfest.org (Nov)
This music fest is such a delightful concept: different singers and bands perform on the porches of various homes in the historic, Springfield neighborhood. Stroll along, enjoy the music, admire the historic houses, and grab a tasty snack from food trucks. PorchFest is the brainchild of Christina Parrish--attorney, serial-house-restorer (she's done 30), and former, unofficial "mayor" of Springfield.
Riverside Arts Market riversideartsmarket.com (Sat, 10am-3pm) Every Saturday is a festival at RAM in Riverside, under the Fuller Warren Bridge. Check out local crafts--paintings, jewelry, and handmade goods--plus a farmer’s market, and music!

RAM

 

RELISH JAX'S RESTAURANT SCENE

There's an incredible restaurant scene in Jax. In fact, each neighborhood has its' hip, hot spots:
Downtown: The Elbow (Bay St-Adams St/Main St-Liberty St) - Considered Downtown's "entertainment district," the area is known for its eateries & cool cocktail lounges/whiskey bars: Dos Gatos (123 E. Forsyth St; www.dosgatosjax.com) & The Volstead (115 W Adams St; thevolsteadjax.com) 

Street Art, Dos Gatos

Riverside: Boldbean (869 Stockton St; www.boldbeancoffee.com) - Great coffee & pastries. King St gastropubs: Kickbacks and Goozlepipe & Guttyworks.

San Marco: The dining district is a date-night destination and a great way to explore the lovely San Marco neighborhood. Popular spots: 

Taverna (1986 San Marco Blvd; taverna.restaurant) for Italian & Maple St Biscuit Co. (2004 San Marco Blvd; maplestreetbiscuits.com) for southern comfort food.

Springfield: 
Uptown Kitchen & Bar (1303 N. Main St) - Inventive American for breakfast, lunch & dinner. 

LET JAX ENTERTAIN YOU
Music: Jacksonville has a long history with great music. Elvis Presley gave his first indoor concerts here in 1956, and the bands Lynyrd Skynyrd & The Allman Brothers were born here. 

Jacksonville Center for the Performing Arts (300 Water St; http://bit.ly/1Kf1hK7) - Three stages for concerts, musicals, dance recitals, comedy shows, & the marvelous Jacksonville Symphony Orchestra.
Florida Theatre (128 East Forsyth St; floridatheatre.com) - Great entertainment since 1927 (Elvis performed here in 1956); contemporary pop, jazz, rock, country & blues, plus opera and ballet. 

Ritz Theatre & Museum (829 No Davis St; www.ritzjacksonville.com) - Great jazz venue with a fascinating African-American history museum.
Theater: Theatre Jacksonville (2032 San Marco Blvd; www.theatrejax.com) - The oldest community theatre in the country, open since 1938.
Movies: Before "Hollywood," Jacksonville was the Winter Film Capital of the World. Explore this fascinating history, then catch a movie at Sun-Rays Cinema (1028 Park St; www.sunraycinema.com) in the Five Points section of Riverside. Sadly, the historic San Marco Theatre just closed after 84 years.

HEAD TO THE BEACHES
Just a half hour from Downtown, Jax's three main beaches--Jacksonville Beach, Neptune & Atlantic--share a splendid strip of sand. There are seaside dining options, cute shops, and some artsy activities: an Arts Market and even a museum!

Morning Surf, Lois Newman

Where To Stay:

Downtown: Marriott (245 Water St) - A wonderful spot right near everything in Downtown Jax; very friendly, helpful staff, plus nice rooms & a pool. The same goes for the Hyatt Regency Jacksonville Riverfront (225 E. Coastline Dr).

The Beaches:  

Marriott's Courtyard Jacksonville Beach Oceanfront (1627 N. 1st St; https://tinyurl.com/y4qg2c53) - Perfect spot midway between all the beaches. Wonderful, friendly, super-helpful staff & outdoor heated pool right on the ocean.

Other options: The Hilton's Hampton Inn; One Ocean Resort & Spa; the new Margaritaville; Casa Marina - Famous for its Sunday brunch, etc. 

Getting There: JetBlue offers great, frequent, friendly on-time service. 

Dawn Patrol, J. Seward Johnson

Getting Around: Everyone drives, but there's a very reliable public transit bus system, JTA. (Get a STAR card.) JTA Hotline: 904-630-3100, ext. 4 (Mon-Fri, 5:30am-8:30pm; Sat, 8am-5pm) - Info on bus lines, bus stops & schedules or get the MyJTA App. Skyway monorail runs Mon-Fri, 6am-9pm; Free. In San Marco & at the Beaches, free rides are offered (certain times, Thurs-Sun) by Beach Buggies, download the App. There's the Riverside Trolley (1st weekend of month). And, just for fun, take a river taxi across the St. Johns.