Explore France’s Normandy Coastline, Côte d'Albâtre: Part ll: FÉCAMP: 5 Great Reasons To Visit

Fécamp (photo: Thomas Le Floc'H)

By Jacquelin Carnegie

There are so many reasons to explore France’s Normandy coastline: The Côte d’Albâtre (Alabaster coast) is a stretch of chalk cliffs, like England’s white cliffs of Dover across The Channel, with several worthwhile stops along the way.
Fécamp is a charming place to vacation; a lovely, relaxing spot with lots of interesting sites because…it was once a coastal base for the Dukes of Normandy in the 11th century and the locale of an important Benedictine Abbey during the early Middle Ages. Also, over the centuries, Fécamp became France’s top cod fishing port and today you can enjoy a meal of freshly-caught fish at the Marché aux Poissons as well as in almost every restaurant in town!

THREE MUST-SEE SITES
Les Pêcheries - Musée de Fécamp
3 Quai Capitaine Jean Recher; www.musee-fecamp.fr (Open daily, Fee)

Crinolines sur la plage, Fécamp, Jules Achille Noel, 1871; Les Pêcheries

Housed in a former 1950’s cod-drying factory, Les Pêcheries is actually several museums combined into one, all related to the history of Fécamp: First, the museum presents a comprehensive idea of the local way of life over the centuries. Next, it details the history of cod and herring fishing, the most important commercial activity in the area since ancient times. (The Fécamp fishermen ventured as far north as the Canadian coast of Newfoundland to catch cod.) Then, there’s a collection of fine art paintings reflecting the sights, history and events pertinent to the area. Plus, a fascinating exhibit devoted to a local doctor, Dr. Léon Dufour, whose innovations in the 19th century saved the lives of infants worldwide. Last-but-not-least, on the top floor, there’s a 360° view of the surroundings: town, sea, and cliffs.

Palais Bénédictine
110 rue Alexandre Le Grand; www.benedictinedom.com (Open daily, Guided tour, Fee)

Palais Bénédictine

Even if you don’t drink or have any interest in liqueur, this is a must-visit. The Benedictine Palace is an architectural delight of neo-Gothic and neo-Renaissance inspiration, built at the end of the 19th century with finely-decorated rooms, stunning stained-glass windows, and carved-wood walls.
Legend has it that in the Middle Ages a Benedictine monk came up with the recipe for a digestive based on 27 medicinal herbs and spices. The recipe was lost over time and only rediscovered in 1863 by a wine merchant from Fécamp, Alexander Le Grand. Monsieur Le Grant made Benedictine liqueur into a worldwide brand and built this amazing “palace” to house the only Benedictine distillery in the world as well as his eclectic collection of objects d’art. At the end of the tour, you also get to taste this unique liqueur.

Abbatiale de la Sainte Trinité - Abbey of the Holy Trinity of Fécamp
10 rue des Forts (Open daily; April-Sept 9am-7pm; Oct-March, 9am-12pm/2-5pm; Free to visit; Guided tour in French, Fee)

Fécamp Abbey

From the 11th century onwards, Benedictine monks settled here at the invitation of the Dukes of Normandy as it had been a holy site for centuries and one of the first pilgrimage locations in Normandy. The Fécamp Abbey is an impressive Gothic structure (127 meters/417 feet long), almost the same length as the Notre-Dame Cathedral in Paris (128 meters/420 feet) with interior adornments of interest from several centuries, such as: the Tabernacle of the Precious Blood, the 15th-century sculpture of the Dormition of the Virgin, and the magnificent 17th-century, Astronomical clock displaying: time, moon phases, and the tides.

OTHER ACTIVITIES TO ENJOY
The Great Outdoors: There’s every kind of enjoyable, outdoor activity imaginable in this bucolic spot: hiking, biking, horseback-riding, sailing and, of course, just relaxing on the beach. Plus, several interesting Guided Tours (Tours in French; in English only for groups in case you’re traveling with many friends &/or your whole family in tow). Check with the tourism office for all the options: Fécamp Tourisme (Quai Sadi Carnot, Tel: +33 2 35 28 51 01) 

On the Beach, Fecamp, Berthe Morisot, 1873

Marché aux Poissons 

(2 rue du Commandant Riondel; Seasonal Opening hours: Fri & Sat, 9am-12:30pm/3pm-7pm; Tues-Thurs, 9am-12:30pm)
- Enjoy a freshly-caught, seafood meal at the Marché aux Poissons (fish market). Depending on the time of year, the best catch might be: cod, sole, bream, smoked & salt-cured herring (Oct-Jan), scallops (Oct-May), mackerel (summer), mussels, oysters, whelks & clams.

A LOVELY DAY TRIP
ÉTRETAT: This lovely, little village--known for its falaises, steep cliffs facing the sea, and rock arches (Aval, Amont & Manneporte)--has appealed to artistic types for centuries, such as writers (Guy de Maupassant, Victor Hugo, Gustave Flaubert, etc.) and painters (Claude Monet, Gustave Courbet, Eugène Boudin, etc.). Today, it’s just as inviting. Enjoy the landscape & these two worthwhile sites:
Les Jardins d'Étretat (Ave Damilaville; https://etretatgarden.fr; Closed: Dec-Feb; Fee) - Landscape architect Alexander Grivko transformed the grounds of a Belle Epoque villa into a magnificent, cliffside, topiary garden that features knock-out, contemporary art. Twice awarded the prestigious “Remarkable Garden” label by the French Ministry of Culture.

Les Jardins d’Étretat (photo: Yann Monel)

Clos Lupin – Maison Maurice Leblanc 

(15 rue Guy de Maupassant; Tel: +33 2 35 10 59 53; Fee) – Visit if you’re a fan of Leblanc’s books about the gentleman burglar, Arsène Lupin.
Dine: Restaurant du Perrey (3 rue Général Leclerc) – After sightseeing, enjoy a delicious meal with a spectacular view right on the waterfront. 
Getting to Étretat: From Fécamp or Le Havre by bus (autocar), Ligne 509. 
Or, from Fécamp, take a 2-hour speed boat excursion, La Mer pour Tous, or a 4-hour mini-cruise on a sail boat.

Making Your Trip to Fécamp Easier:
Where To Dine: Many good restaurants in town to choose from, plus the Marché aux Poissons.
Where To Stay: Absolutely all kinds of nice accommodations.
Hôtel Le Grand Pavois (15 Quai de la Vicomte; https://www.hotel-grand-pavois.com/en) - Nice, modern hotel in a great location, right on the harbor.
Getting around: In-town the Fici Bus. Fécamp Brochures & Maps (in French & English).

Fécamp harbor

Getting There: The Normandy region has its own train lines NOMAD; Paris - Gare Saint Lazare, change at Bréauté–Beuzeville for Fécamp (about 2 1/2hrs) 
Bus: FLIXBUS – Paris direct to Fécamp (around 3hrs)
Nearby Jaunts: Visit other lovely towns along the Côte d'Albâtre. Normandy also has its own bus lines (NOMAD autocar): Ligne 509 connects Fécamp - Etretat - Le Havre. From Fécamp to Dieppe (Ligne 513 to St Valéry en Caux, then 514 to Dieppe).

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Going Green: The Normandy region encourages “green” travel with some unique offers: Le Tarif bas-carbone (Low-Carbon Rate) – Get 10% off at various attractions by showing your train or bus ticket, or a photo of your bike! Sejours bas-carbone (Low-Carbon Visits) – Suggestions of places to visit that are easy to get to (& get around) without a car. If you really want to drive, rent an electric car! Explore Normandy Pass – Discounts throughout the region.

Parc Éolien - France’s first Offshore Wind Farm in Normandy, is off the coast of Fécamp; you can see it on a boat tour.

Claude Monet - 2026 marks the 100th anniversary of his death; there’ll be lots of special exhibits in Normandy.

Explore France’s Normandy Coastline, Côte d'Albâtre: Part lll: DIEPPE: 5 Great Reasons To Visit

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Eugene Boudin On the Beach, Dieppe (1864)

There are so many reasons to explore France’s Normandy coastline: The Côte d’Albâtre (Alabaster coast) is a stretch of chalk cliffs, like England’s white cliffs of Dover across The Channel, with several worthwhile stops along the way.

Dieppe is considered France’s very first seaside resort and has the prestigious Ville d’Art et d’Histoire (“Town of Art & History”) label awarded by the French Ministry of Culture. It also has some of the best seafood restaurants along the coast!

A LOVELY SEASIDE TOWN
In the 19th century, the upper classes became preoccupied with their health. By mid-century, physicians began touting the medicinal benefits of fresh air, exercise, and sea bathing. European elites beat a path to the beach, making villes balnéaire (seaside towns) and “sea cures” all the rage.
Dieppe is considered France’s very first seaside resort as sea bathing began here as far back as 1822. In 1824, the famous Duchesse de Berry, daughter-in-law of King Charles X, arrived and turned it into a trendy locale. The British crossed The Channel by ferry and, in 1848, a railway line connected Paris to Dieppe and Parisians started to flock to town. Today, Dieppe is still a popular seaside resort. You can relax on the Plage de Dieppe, a long, pebble beach, stroll along the lovely esplanade, and stay at nice hotels right by the shore.

Kite Festival (photo: David Parry)

Festival International de Cerfs-Volants - Kite Festival (every 2 years, next one Sept 2027) – An exciting event that fills the sky over the beach with delightful shapes & colors!

A HAVEN FOR ARTISTS & WRITERS
In the 19th century, the fashionable seaside resort of Dieppe, also became popular with writers--attracted by its’ vibrant, Bohemian scene--and artists--enticed by its unique atmosphere and quality of light--that inspired them to paint the lively port and lovely beachfront with its dramatic cliffs.
Well-known artists such as J.M.W. Turner, Claude Monet & Camille Pissarro came here to paint. Others such as the German-British artist Walter Sickert came here to live. Famous writers such as Oscar Wilde & Guy de Maupassant came here to hang out.
Dieppe Office de Tourisme (Pont Jehan Ango; Tel: +33 2 32 14 40 60)
Take a fascinating tour of all the sights that inspired the painters & writers, stroll through Le Pollet, the historic, fishermen’s neighborhood, and learn the history behind the churches Église Saint-Jacques & Église Saint-Rémy.
a) Do self-guided, walking tours with the aid of these maps or b) The Tourism Office can arrange a guide such as Bertrand Edimo from the Dieppe Ville d’Art et d’Histoire office. (Tours in French, English, Spanish & German.)

Dieppe Harbor (photo: Lezbroz/Dieppe-Normandie Tourisme)

Château-Musée de Dieppe
(Rue de Chastes; Open: Feb-Dec, Wed-Sun, 10am-6pm; Fee)
Head up a steep hill to the fortress-castle museum, the Vieux-Château, rebuilt in 1435, houses the city’s maritime heritage and one of the finest collections of carved ivories in Europe. There are also Impressionist paintings by famous artists such as Renoir & Pissarro, and a room devoted to French composer Camille Saint-Saëns. Plus, great views over the town.

A GREAT PLACE TO DINE: SEAFOOD & LOCAL SPECIALTIES
After all, Dieppe is a fishing port and, over the centuries, herring and scallops have been two important catches for the community. In fact, Dieppe is France’s leading port for this exceptional shellfish (Coquille Saint-Jacques = scallops).

Fish Market (photo: Paul Grecaud)

Foire aux Harengs et à la Coquille Saint-Jacques - Herring & Scallop Festival (3rd weekend in November) – Not only seafood, but a town fair with entertainment & parades.
Local Specialties: Marché de Dieppe
(Saturday, 8am-1pm) - This Saturday-morning market was voted Plus Beau Marché de France (“Most Beautiful Market in France”). Some 200 vendor stalls run the entire length of the pedestrian street, the Grande Rue, right up to the Place du Puits-Salé, and along the side streets as well. Pick up some mouth-watering, local specialties such as Neufchâtel cheese, apple caramel spread, and cider. Fish, seafood, organic fruits & veggies, spices, and household items.

Dining & Drinks: Most of the chefs for Dieppe’s many, fine restaurants, pick out the freshest catch-of-the-day at the Marché aux Poissons.

Le Bas Fort Blanc (Photo: Khris Passenaud)

Bistrot des Barrières (5 Arcade de la Poissonnerie; Tel: +33 2 35 40 46 83) - The most delicious dishes of freshly-caught, local seafood served along with organic fruits & vegetables from a nearby farm. Everything is expertly-made in-house, including the bread.

Le Bas Fort Blanc (10 Rue Alexandre Dumas; Tel: +33 2 35 06 01 36) - Right on the ocean with stunning views, a large outdoor patio & indoor dining. Tasty, fresh-seafood offerings, great drinks, and fancy desserts.
Café des Tribunaux (Place du Puits Salé) - This historic place is best for drinks on the café terrace where Oscar Wilde and Guy De Maupassant used to hang out.

SPORTS GALORE: A GREAT PLACE TO HIKE & BIKE
In addition to all the fabulous watersports (surfing, sailing, kayaking, paddleboarding, etc.), you can go on local hikes and bike rides or do something a little more ambitious…

Sailing (photo: Ville de Dieppe)

Hiking Trail, GR21 – This is a long-distance, hiking trail that goes along Normandy’s Côte d'Albâtre. You could hike all the way from Le Havre to Dieppe and on to Le Tréport or just do smaller segments. 
3 Biking Routes: If you don’t have a bike, there are plenty of places to rent one.
1) Vélomaritime (EuroVelo 4) - This biking route goes along Normandy’s coastline. Instead of hiking, you could bike all the way from Le Havre to Dieppe and on to Le Tréport.
2) Véloroute du Lin - This is a lovely bike route through the countryside between Dieppe and Fécamp.
3) Avenue Verte - How ambitious are you? Bike all the way from Paris to Dieppe (& on to London via a ferry segment).

A LOVELY DAY TRIP
VARENGEVILLE-SUR-MER: Close to Dieppe, this lovely, little town has been a favorite spot for musicians, writers, and artists: the Impressionists Monet, Renoir, Pissarro, Corot and the Cubist artist Georges Braque, who became a resident, Surrealist painter Joan Miró and the Modernist sculptor Alexandre Calder. It’s as alluring today and worth a visit, especially for these two spots:

Église Saint-Valéry, marine cemetery
(photo: Mairie de Varengeville-sur-Mer)

Église Saint-Valéry (43 Rte de I’Église) – Perched atop the Ailly cliff, the church was originally built in the 12th century by Conches Abbey monks and enlarged in the 16th century. The interior is now adorned by modern art, notably stained-glass windows by Georges Braque and his student Raoul Ubac. Braque is buried in the church’s “sailors cemetery”; he designed his own gravestone, a mosaic of a bird in flight.
Musée Michel Ciry 

(6 bis rue Marguerite Rolle; https://www.museemichelciry.com Open: May-Sept, Wed-Mon, 2-6pm; April & Oct, weekends, 2-6pm; Fee) - Michel Ciry was a French painter, composer, and writer born in Brittany in 1919. He was known foremost as a master engraver and illustrator, but he did work in various mediums such as oil, watercolor, and ink. In 1964, he moved to Varengeville-sur-Mer where he lived until his death in 2018. In 2012, he created a museum to present a permanent collection of his work. A devout Christian, his art is largely devoted to sacred themes, but he also did lovely landscapes and touching portraits. Built next to his former farmhouse home, the museum is a stunning, modern structure that has space for temporary exhibits by other artists and offers cultural events such as concerts and readings, in tribute to his other achievements in music and literature.

Getting There: From Dieppe to Varengeville-sur-Mer, take bus (NOMAD autocar) Ligne 514 (around 1/2 hour); for another interesting visit, continue on to Veules-les-Roses (named one of the Most Beautiful Villages of France “Les Plus Beaux Villages de France”). 

Making Your Trip to Dieppe Easier:
Tourisme Pass (July-Sept; Fee) – Provides entry to many monuments & activities. 
Where To Stay: All kinds of accommodations to choose from, including those on the seafront. 

Michel Ciry Le Tréport 1976

Hôtel Aguado (30 Blvd de Verdun, https://www.hoteldieppe.com) - Family-run for 3 generations, the hotel offers the best of both worlds: it overlooks the sea & is also smack-dab in the middle of town, close to all the sights, shops & restaurants.

Getting Around: There’s a free shuttle bus that makes a loop around town from the train station to the beach & regular bus routes, DeepMob.
Petit Train de Dieppe (Feb-Nov; Fee) – Many French towns have a little, tourist train; a 45-minute loop of all the important sights. 
Getting There: The Normandy region has its own train lines NOMAD; Paris - Gare Saint Lazare, with a connection in Rouen to Dieppe (2 1/2 hours). 
Bus: FLIXBUS – Paris direct to Dieppe (around 3 hours)
Ferry from England: Newhaven – Dieppe (4 hours) 
Nearby Jaunts: Visit other lovely towns along the Côte d'Albâtre. Normandy also has its own bus lines (NOMAD autocar): From Dieppe to Fécamp (Ligne 514 to St Valéry en Caux, then 513). Ligne 509 connects Fécamp - Etretat - Le Havre.

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Going Green: The Normandy region encourages “green” travel with some unique offers: Le Tarif bas-carbone (Low-Carbon Rate) – Get 10% off at various attractions by showing your train or bus ticket, or a photo of your bike! Sejours bas-carbone (Low-Carbon Visits) – Suggestions of places to visit that are easy to get to (& get around) without a car. If you really want to drive, rent an electric car! Explore Normandy Pass – Discounts throughout the region. Claude Monet - 2026 marks the 100th anniversary of his death; there’ll be lots of special exhibits in Normandy.

ART BEAT: Visit 5 FABULOUS ART FOUNDATIONS in New York City

The Brant Foundation, Basquiat exhibit (photo: Tom Powel imaging)

By Jacquelin Carnegie

The Brant Foundation

In New York City, there are many great ways to have culturally-inspiring experiences and lots of wonderful places to see incredible art. While you may be familiar with all the major museums, there are also several, really special art foundations you might not have heard about, where the spaces they’re housed in are often as interesting as the art: 
Downtown
The Brant Foundation
421 East 6th St, btw 1st Ave - Ave A; brantfoundation.org (Open: Wed-Sun; Fee or Free Admission depending on exhibit)

Successful businessman and philanthropist Peter Brant has many eclectic interests, but his main passion is contemporary art. He’s been an avid collector since his college days when his first acquisitions included two Andy Warhols and a Franz Kline! Lucky for us, Brant has put his impressive collection on display, first in Greenwich, Connecticut and now in a stunning new location in New York City. The building, a former ConEd substation, has been redesigned as an exhibit space which is as knockout as the artwork on display. [Enjoy a virtual tour of Brant’s extensive Jean-Michel Basquiat collection.] 

Judd Foundation
101 Spring St, www.juddfoundation.org; Tel: 212/219-2747 (Open: Tues-Sat; Admission Fee; Guided tours only, book in advance) 

Judd bedroom, Dan Flavin light sculpture
(photo: James Ewing; Courtesy Judd Foundation)

You don’t have to be a fan of Donald Judd’s artwork to appreciate a visit to his former home and studio in Manhattan's SoHo district. First, the beautifully-restored, 19th-century, cast-iron building is one of the few remaining in the neighborhood. Next, Judd designed and built many of the everyday items in the home such as dining tables, chairs, desks, etc. And, the space is filled with works by some of Judd’s favorite artists such as Dan Flavin and Frank Stella. Judd bought the building in 1968; a visit provides a fascinating glimpse into the life of a successful, modern artist.

Resnick-Passlof Foundation

The Milton Resnick & Pat Passlof Foundation
87 Eldridge St; resnickpasslof.org; Tel: 646/559-2513 (Open: Thurs-Sat, 11am-6pm; Free Admission; Closed in Aug.)

Milton Resnick and Pat Passlof were Abstract Expressionist painters who lived and worked on Manhattan’s Lower East Side in a building that was once a synagogue. Since their passing, the space has been renovated into a showplace for their signature paintings as well as for exhibits of work by other Abstract Expressionist artists. The Foundation also presents lectures, poetry readings, and musical programs in this magnificent space.

Chelsea
The FLAG Art Foundation
545 West 25th St, 9th Fl, btw 10th-11th Ave; http://flagartfoundation.org; Tel: 212/206-0220 (Open: Wed-Sat, 11am-5pm; Free Admission)

Nicolas Party: Pastel, 2021, FLAG 
(photo: Steven Probert)

Financier, philanthropist, collector, and art patron Glenn Fuhrman launched The FLAG Art Foundation as a non-profit, exhibit space to encourage the appreciation of contemporary art. The marvelous, imaginative exhibits are meant to attract a diverse audience. FLAG generally presents four to six exhibits a year of both established and emerging artists. The Foundation also invites a creative group of individuals—artists, athletes, writers, historians, fashion designers, museum directors--to guest curate these fab exhibits.

Hill Art Foundation
239 Tenth Ave, at 24th St, 3rd Fl, https://hillartfoundation.org
(Open: Tues-Sat, 11am-5pm; Free Admission)

Hill Art Foundation

For forty years, former financier J. Tomilson Hill and his wife have been passionate art collectors. The Hill Art Foundation is a lovely way for them to share their collection with the public: allowing visitors to see how they think about art as well as how they juxtapose and display pieces. While the Foundation reflects the Hills’ personal taste, it’s also about sharing—encouraging the viewer to reflect on and engage with the pieces to find new interpretations of the works on view. The galley space itself is stunning, on the 3rd & 4th floors of the Getty building designed by famed architect Peter Marino.

Day Trips in the Tri-State Area: 10+ Sensational Staycations

By Jacquelin Carnegie

J.O. Davidson, The Hudson River from the Tappan Zee, 1871
(Courtesy Hudson River Museum)

If you've been starved for culture and nature, but don't want to wander too far from home, there are some lovely, small museums and gardens in the tri-state area worth visiting. Here are some suggestions for delightful day trips: 

CULTURAL & CULINARY OUTING
GREENWICH, CONNECTICUT
Only a 50-minute train ride from New York City, the coastal Connecticut town of Greenwich is one of the oldest, full of history, culture, and wealthy people. Spend a lovely day visiting the museum, strolling through town and relaxing by the waterside.
BRUCE MUSEUM
1 Museum Dr, Greenwich, CT; Tel: 203-869-0376; brucemuseum.org 

Hassam, The Mill Pond, 1902
(Courtesy Bruce Museum)

(Open: Tues-Sun, Fee but Free on Tuesdays)

Situated at the top of a hill, in a beautiful park setting, the Bruce Museum highlights both art and the natural sciences in several annual, changing exhibits. The museum's permanent collection includes impressive natural history specimens and artwork from the Cos Cob School of American Impressionists. Originally built as a private home in 1853, then Robert Moffat Bruce, a wealthy textile merchant, deeded it to the Town on Greenwich in 1908. Now, a modern expansion provides more space for the museum's exhibits & educational programs.
Other Cultural Activities:
Roger Sherman Baldwin Park - Chill out at this lovely little harborside park. Admire the sculpture by Lila Katzen, Priapos, the Greek god of fertility, sometimes referred to as the god of the harbor.
Visit landmarks from the 1700s:
Bush-Holley House (Greenwich Historical Society)
Putnam Cottage–Knapp Tavern Museum (George Washington dined here during the Revolution) & enjoy some lovely music: Greenwich Symphony Orchestra.
Dine: There are over 20 eateries to choose from on Greenwich Avenue, the town's main drag. Stroll along to find one that appeals to your tastes. Then, head to L'Escale (500 Steamboat Rd; Tel: 203-661-4600) for a fancy French meal or just a drink by the waterside.

Priapos, Greenwich waterfront 

Getting There: Dive or from New York (Grand Central Station), take a Metro North train (New Haven line) to Greenwich. The Bruce Museum & Greenwich Avenue are a 5-minute walk from the station. Travel time: About an hour.

ART & NATURE ON VIEW
YONKERS, NEW YORK
Just a 25-minute train ride from midtown Manhattan, Yonkers overlooks the Hudson River. While the downtown area could use a good spruce-up, there are other pretty places to explore. Visit the museum, stroll through the gardens' grounds, then have lunch by the waterfront.
HUDSON RIVER MUSEUM
511 Warburton Ave, Yonkers, NY; Tel: 914-963-4550; www.hrm.org 

Fuechsel, Hudson River Scene, 1875
(Courtesy Hudson River Museum)

(Open: Wed-Sun, Fee but Free 1st Fridays)

This lovely museum has an impressive collection of 19th-century, Hudson River School paintings and also shows contemporary art in changing exhibits in its modern, main building. On the property, there's also the historic Glenview home, built in 1877, showcasing Gilded Age period rooms, and a state-of-the-art Planetarium.
UNTERMYER PARK & GARDENS
945 North Broadway, Yonkers NY; www.untermyergardens.org
(Open: Daily, 9am-7pm; Free)
These 43 acres of gardens, maintained by a handful of dedicated gardeners and horticulturists, have been preserved and restored from the former 150-acre Samuel Untermyer estate, once tended to by 60 gardeners. In 1916, Untermyer hired Beaux Arts architect Welles Bosworth to design the gardens overlooking the Hudson River. But after his death, the property fell into disrepair. Now owned by the City of Yonkers, the garden-park is being brought back to its former glory by the Conservancy. While many areas have been lovingly restored, others are still a work-in-progress.

(Courtesy Untermyer Gardens Conservancy)

Other Cultural Activities: 
Philipse Manor Hall (29 Warburton Ave) - Built in the 1600s, the manor house is one of the oldest historic sites in the U.S. Now, a museum of history, art, and architecture. 
Sherwood House Museum (340 Tuckahoe Rd) - Built in 1740, it's the oldest Colonial farmhouse in Yonkers. 
TV series: "Show Me a Hero" (HBO) - A dark, yet fascinating take on Yonkers' history; worth watching.
Dine: Have a meal with the view of the Hudson in downtown Yonkers. TaqueRio Taco Bar (1 Van Der Donck St) is right on the waterfront.
Getting There: Dive or from New York (Grand Central Station), take a Metro North train (Hudson line) to Yonkers or Glenwood (for the museum). Travel time: About 25 minutes.

SCULPTURE/SPLENDOR IN THE GRASS - New York & New Jersey
If you love sculpture and the great outdoors, check out these

(Courtesy StormKing)

lovely places that are easy to get to: Governors Island right in NYC, StormKing in Mountainville, New York & Grounds For Sculpture in Hamilton, New Jersey: http://bit.ly/1HzYVHC

GLORIOUS CITY GARDENS

These wonderful garden spaces are just a subway ride away:
BROOKLYN BOTANICAL GARDENS - Brooklyn, New York
900 Washington Ave; www.bbg.org
(Open: Tues-Sun, Fee but Pay-What-You-Wish on winter weekdays)

The Japanese Hill-and-Pond Garden is a lovely feature of this garden. Imagine you’re in Japan as you stroll the winding paths by a pond, waterfall, picturesque bridges, and a traditional Shinto shrine. The garden is especially delightful during cherry blossom season (April-May).
The Brooklyn Museum of Art (200 Eastern Pkwy; www.brooklynmuseum.org) is right near by and also worth visiting.

Japanese Garden
(Courtesy Brooklyn Botanical Gardens)

NEW YORK BOTANICAL GARDEN - Bronx, New York
2900 Southern Blvd; www.nybg.org
(Open: Tues-Sun, Fee but Free on Wed for NYC residents)

The garden's beautiful grounds are a nice way to escape your apartment without leaving the city. From late April to early May some 50,000 tulips are in bloom here.

WAVE HILL - Bronx, NY

4900 Independence Ave; www.wavehill.org 

(Open: Tues-Sun, Fee but Free on Thursdays)

Wave Hill's lovely, 28-acre public garden overlooks the Hudson River and the Palisades. It's a great place to sit, read a book, have a picnic, and contemplate life. There's also a cafe & cultural center.

ARMCHAIR TRAVELING

THE ARTSY VOYAGER: 101 ARTSY & COOL THINGS TO DO IN PARIS

Read my Paris guide book, so you'll be ready to go as soon as you have some vacation time! (Available on Amazon &/or Apple Books.)

New York: THEATER BUZZ – Spring 2026

By Jacquelin Carnegie

BROADWAY

CHESS 
(Imperial Theatre, 249 West 45th St; only until June 21, 2026)
Music & Lyrics by Tim Rice, Benny Andersson & Björn Ulvaeus; New book by Danny Strong; Directed by Michael Mayer; Staring Aaron Tveit, Lea Michele, & Nicholas Christopher

It may be hard to imagine now, but in 1972 the World Chess Championship, between American Bobby Fischer and Russian Boris Spassky, captivated the world.
The musical CHESS captures that excitement by pitting two, top chess champions -– a bad-boy American (“Freddy” Aaron Tveit) against a depressed Russian (“Anatoly” Nicholas Christopher) -- at the height of the Cold War. They are both also vying for the love and attention of the same woman, a brilliant chess strategist (“Florence” Lea Michele).
CHESS began as a concept album in 1984, based on an idea that writer Tim Rice (Andrew Lloyd Webber’s frequent collaborator) brought to ABBA’s Benny & Björn, who loved the concept. The album's success led to theatrical productions, first in London’s West End, then a short-lived Broadway run. Over the years, with several book rewrites, there have been many tours and West End revivals, plus various cast albums. This fabulous, upbeat and exciting production – its’ first Broadway revival – just happens to be in the same theatre where the show first ran in 1988. Go now!! It’s only up until June 21st.
[If you can’t make it to New York in time to see this terrific revival, view the fabulous 2008 London CHESS in Concert version featuring Josh Groban, Idina Menzel & Adam Pascal on YouTube.] 

MOBY DICK (photo: Lucie Jansch)

OFF-BROADWAY

BAM and En Garde Arts are always presenting interesting work, so if you sadly miss these two shows, get on their mailing lists &/or follow their social media.
Friendly Reminder: Off-Broadway shows have limited runs, so get tickets right away.

MOBY DICK
(BAM, 30 Lafayette Ave, Brooklyn, NY; closed 5/3/26)
From the Düsseldorfer Schauspielhaus theater
Direction, Design & Lighting by Robert Wilson; Music by Anna Calvi. In German & English with supertitles.
Those who already love the work of avant-garde director Robert Wilson will be pleased, and the uninitiated are in for a treat. Once again, Wilson’s signature, striking visual style is on display in MOBY DICK, considered his last, realized production before his death in 2025.
Here, the essence of Herman Melville’s epic, 1851 novel Moby-Dick is revealed in a series of Wilson-style tableau vivant. The accompanying music and songs by British, singer-songwriter Anna Calvi beautifully express the melancholia of this human tragedy and whale tale.
That this piece is performed mostly in German is also oddly fitting as the late-18th-century German movement Sturm und Drang ("Storm and Stress"), characterized by dramatic, often tragic tales exploring inner turmoil, perfectly captures the fundamental nature of Moby-Dick. This combined with Wilson’s palette of haunting visual beauty, plus a new character “The Boy” adds some comic relief to the fate of the doomed whalers.
This production premiered at Germany’s Düsseldorfer Schauspielhaus, where Wilson created several other seminal works. It’s touching that that cast, including favorite performers Christopher Nell & Rosa Enskat, are part of this U.S. premiere of MOBY DICK here at the Brooklyn Academy of Music (BAM) which serves as a posthumous tribute.
Unfortunately, the show is up for just a few days – Run to Brooklyn, now!

73 SECONDS

73 SECONDS (photo: David Gray)

(The Lower Eastside Girls Club Planetarium, 402 E 8th St, NY; closed 5/18/26)
Presented by En Garde Arts; Directed & Co-Developed by Aya Ogawa; Created, Written & Performed by Jared Mezzocchi.
For years, En Garde Arts has been producing way-cool, site-specific work. This latest piece is no exception—staged in a little planetarium on the Lower East Side that who-knew-existed. The show is a sort of cosmic coming-of-age tale: a young man finds out his unassuming, math-teacher mom shoulda-coulda-woulda been an astronaut. He and we want to know more, but by the time he gets around to quizzing her about the time she spent at NASA, she’s already lost in space. 73 SECONDS proves it’s always interesting to explore the many mysteries of the cosmos and family life.

Discover France’s La Vendée Region, Part 3: Noirmoutier Island - 11 Great Reasons To Visit

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Noirmoutier Island (photo: @lenamrzl)

La Vendée is a wonderful area to explore in the Pays de la Loire region on France’s western coast. It’s known for its’ lovely, beach towns such as Les Sables-d'Olonne and its’ bucolic countryside, Le Bocage Vendéen. Then, there’s Noirmoutier—an island that’s about as idyllic as beach life could get: totally peaceful and extremely picturesque. The French and other Europeans like to vacation here, and you will too. There’s great food, beautiful beaches, and some of the friendliest locals you’re likely to meet in France! 

Great Reasons To Visit: Sun, Sand, Salt, Seafood & Little Potatoes!
Apart from by boat, for centuries, the only way to reach Noirmoutier Island was via the Passage du Gois, a tidal causeway only accessible at low tide. Finally, in 1971, a bridge was built making this vacation paradise more accessible. The best times to visit: April, May & June (to avoid the summer crowds) and September (if the weather is good).
1) Get Ready To Unwind: Complete Serenity
Maybe it’s the light or the microclimate (mild winters and temperate summers), but the moment you arrive, you relax. You’ll be charmed by the pretty surroundings, the lovely villages, the sunny weather, the crystal-blue water, the nice beaches, the simple, carefree lifestyle, the traditional white houses with blue shutters, the scent of mimosas…the food!
2) Explore The Island
It’s confusing, so just to be clear, the island is: l'Île de Noirmoutier. The main town is: Noirmoutier-en-l'île -- filled with cute, little shops, lots of great restaurants, and several historic sites.

Noirmoutier-en-ile (photo: @Trendz)

Office de Tourisme (Rue du Général Passaga, Noirmoutier-en-l’île &/or Rue de Polder, Barbâtre) - First, stop at the tourism office for some itinerary suggestions & to pick up a map. Then, drive around or, since the island is relatively flat, go exploring by bike.
Visit the Villages & Neighborhoods: Barbâtre, la Guérinière, l'Épine, l'Herbaudière & Noirmoutier-en-l'île. L'Herbaudière Port: A lively fishing port with a marina, souvenir shops, bars, and restaurants. Bois de la Chaise: An area of lovely villas and chalets surrounded by picturesque pines, mimosa & oak trees. See the Windmills – Since the 7th century, there have been windmills on the island. Of the 32 erected during the 19th century, 23 remain; several have been turned into unique, vacation homes.
3) Relax at The Beach

Plage des Dames (photo: J.Carnegie)

Noirmoutier is an island in the Bay of Biscay, so there are lovely beaches everywhere you turn. Some of the most popular: Plage des Dames, Plage des Sableaux, Anse Rouge & La Madeleine. Go to several and see which ones you like best!
4) Get A Refreshing Workout – Sports Galore
There are lots of water sports to enjoy: kitesurfing, paddleboarding, kayaking, water skiing, scuba diving, sailing, etc.
In addition to biking around the island, there are beautiful places to stroll and hike: along the beaches, through the salt marshes, and on lovely trails in the woods: Forêt de la Frandière in Barbâtre, Bois des Eloux in L'Epine & Bois de la Chaise in Noirmoutier. Plus: Horseback riding, tennis, fishing, etc.
5) Discover The Island’s Food Heritage: Salt, Seafood & Little Potatoes
Noirmoutier’s year-round inhabitants are people who’ve lived off the land & sea for generations: mostly fisherman, potato farmers, and salt harvesters.
Salt: In the 7th century, Benedictine monks began transforming the island’s wetlands into salterns--basins where salt is cultivated. Today, there are about 100 salt harvesters (saunier) on the island, using traditional methods to harvest the “white gold” Fleur de sel.

Noirmoutier Potatoes (photo: Julien Gazeau)

Seafood: More than 100 fishing boats unload their catches here daily, including sole, sea bass, striped mullet, lobsters, etc. Locals also like to dig for clams & shrimp and harvest oysters & the delectable bouchot mussels.
Potatoes: Noirmoutier is famous for its’ potatoes--the Sirtema, the Lady Cristl, the Charlotte, but especially the Bonnotte. Planted by hand, grown in sandy soil, and fertilized with seaweed, which gives them their unique flavor.
Les Saveurs de l'ile de Noirmoutier - You can find these and other specialties such as cookies & pastries at little shops and at weekly “Farmers’ Markets” throughout the island. All local products are certified; look for the label Saveurs de l’île de Noirmoutier (Flavors of Noirmoutier Island).
6) Enjoy Some of The Most Delicious Meals You’ll Ever Eat
The chefs here benefit from the island’s bounty to create amazing dishes. Each restaurant offers its own take on Noirmoutier's cuisine. There are many to choose from; start with these: 
Le 11 (11 Quai Cassard, Noirmoutier-en-l'Île, Tel: +33 (0)2 28 10 11 11; https://le11denoirmoutier.com) - Right on the waterfront, a casual, very-friendly spot with tasty meals; try their special: Fish & Chips.

Bouchot Mussels (photo; @Trendz)

Le P’tit Noirmout (10 Rue du Marché, Noirmoutier-en-l’Île, Tel: +33 (0)2 28 10 79 52; https://www.le-ptit-noirmout.com) - Good food in a lively, fun atmosphere.
Le Petit Bouchot (3 Rue Saint-Louis, Noirmoutier-en-l'île, Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 32 56; https://www.restaurant-noirmoutier.com) - Delicious meals in a very staid, traditional setting.
La Potinière (27 Ave Georges Clemenceau, Noirmoutier-en-l’Île, Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 09 61; https://potinierenoirmoutier.com) – A very-modern fish & seafood place, right at the beach, Plage des Dames in Bois de la Chaise.
La Marine*** (5 Rue Marie Lemonnier, L'Herbaudière, Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 23 09; https://www.alexandrecouillon.com) - Michelin 3-star restaurant, booked a year in advance. Chef Alexandre Couillon uses only the freshest, local ingredients: seafood right from the port across the street and herbs & vegetables from his own “kitchen garden.” His wife Céline also runs the more-casual, bistro next door La Table d'Elise. Can’t get into either, get some tasty goodies at their little pastry/grocery shop, Le Petit Couillon.
7) Go on a Guided Tour
Office de Tourisme (Rue du Général Passaga, Noirmoutier-en-l’ile; Tel: +33 (0)2 51 39 80 71) - The Tourism Office offers several interesting Tours (only in French), but some you could enjoy anyway such as a boating excursion. It’s worth checking out what they have to offer. In addition…

Marais Salants (photo: Simon Bourcier)

Visite des Marais Salants – Visit a salt basin to see how the Fleur de sel is harvested. (Marais de Bonne Pogne: May-Sept, tour in English.)
Visite de la Criée à L'Herbaudière Port – Tour the port and the “criée” (fish auction market) where all the fishing boats unload their daily catch. (Tour in French only.) 
8) Take Part In Unique Island Activities
La Fête de la Bonnotte (May) – On the 1st Saturday in May, Noirmoutier’s illustrious Bonnotte potato is feted with an elaborate, communal meal followed by a concert. In the morning, you can go into the fields to pick your own potatoes.
Les Foulées du Gois (June) – Athletes race across the Passage du Gois against the rising tide. Or, just consult the tide schedule and walk or bike across any time at your leisure.
9) Learn More About The Island’s Historic Heritage
Noirmoutier-en-l'île has several historic sites to visit:

Windmill house (photo: J.Carnegie)

Château de Noirmoutier (Place d'Armes) – This 12th century castle is now a museum. Climb to the top for a great panoramic view.

Hôtel Jacobsen (Rue Saint Louis) – Once the home of the influential Jacobsen family, it’s now a maritime-history museum.
Église Saint-Philbert (2 rue du Cheminet) – This 11th century church was built on the grounds of the former Benedictine Abbey, founded in 674 by the monk Saint-Philbert.
10) Be Entertained
Les Salorges (22 Quai Jean Bart, Noirmoutier-en-l'Île) - At this performance center, even if you don’t speak French, there are lots of dance & concert programs to enjoy as well as many programs for kids.
Several cafés in the various villages have live music in the evenings and/or go to the movies (always a few English-language films): Le Mimosa (73 Ave Joseph Pineau, Noirmoutier-en-l'Île). 
11) Be Welcomed Like Family
The people in all the shops, restaurants, and guesthouses are very welcoming—especially if you arrive off-season, in the spring or fall, as I’m recommending.
Where To Stay: There’s everything from hotels to Maison d'hôtes (guesthouses) to camping grounds and rental homes. Here’s a lovely place to start: 

The Corner

The Corner - Maison d'hôtes (2 rue du Général Leclerc, Noirmoutier-en-l’île;
Tel: +33 (0)6 09 86 17 79; https://www.thecorner-no.fr) - When traveling to some place you’ve never been before, it’s nice to be welcomed with open arms. The Corner, is owned by an American, Diane, and her French-chef husband, Raphael. It’s like staying with family you just never met before. Located in the center of lovely Noirmoutier-en-l’île, right by all the cute little shops, the house dates from 1814 and was the home of the former mayor. Completely renovated, today there are 5 beautifully-decorated guest rooms—perfect for romantic getaways. And, in the adjoining property, there are larger rooms great for families or groups of friends traveling together. The amount of thought and attention to detail that has gone into decorating & outfitting each guest room is truly amazing. That, plus Chef Raphael’s delicious meals makes The Corner the perfect place to start your vacation on Noirmoutier Island.
Getting Around: You can rent a car or a bike or hop on the little

Passage de Gois (photo: @alamoureux)

tourist train, Noirmout'Train. 

Getting There: From Paris: SNCF Train to Nantes with a connecting bus, Aléop coach #13 (2hrs & 1.5hrs). Airport: Nantes Atlantique (then an hour drive to the island). Or, consult the tide schedule and drive, bike or walk across the Passage du Gois!