Paris: Discover 20 Secret Passages

By Jacquelin Carnegie – (Paris, France)

Passage du Grand Cerf (photo: MOSSOT/Wiki Commons)

During the 1800s in Paris, around 100 Passages Couverts--stunning, glass-covered passageways--were constructed to shield well-healed shoppers from the elements. Now, only about 20 remain. Some still house high-end stores, others are more lowbrow, shopping arcades.

Referred to as Passages or Galeries, many have been restored to their former glory with dazzling skylights and mosaic-tiled floors while others are a bit on the shabby side. Regardless, as you wander through, browsing the shops or having a coffee in one of the many bistros, remember you’re following in the footsteps of Balzac and Zola--shopping the way Parisians have done for centuries.

  

Explore the Passages Couverts

Here’s a selection worth exploring. Just keep your eyes peeled, some Passage entryways are so inconspicuous you’ll walk right by them.

Galerie Véro-Dodat (photo: Gabrielle Robillard/WikiCommons)

Galerie Véro-Dodat

Enter: 19 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, or 2 rue du Bouloi; 1^st arrondissement; Metro: Louvre Rivoli

In 1826, two butchers with excellent taste, Véro and Dodat, built this elegant passageway. It’s neo-classical style with black-and-white, checkered marble flooring, stylish white-globe lamps, painted ceilings, and the original wooden shop fronts is a classy setting for art galleries and antique shops selling everything from vintage musical instruments to collectible toys and dolls.

Galerie Vivienne (photo: Mbzt/WikiCommons)

Galerie Vivienne

www.galerie-vivienne.com

Enter: 4 rue des Petits Champs, or 6 rue Vivienne, or 5 rue de la Banque; 2^nd arrondissement; Metro: Bourse or Pyramides

Lined with high-fashion boutiques, antiques shops and old bookstores, this passageway is thought to be the most beautiful with a stunning mosaic floor, tall-glass arched store fronts, and potted trees. Built in 1823, it converges with the Galerie Colbert.

Galerie Colbert (photo: Tangopaso/Wiki Commons)

Galerie Colbert

Enter at: 6 rue des Petits-Champs, or 6 rue Vivienne; 2^nd arrondissement; Metro: Bourse or Pyramides

Restored by the Bibliothèque Nationale (National Library), this stately passage, built in 1826, leads to a magnificent, glass-covered rotunda. Stand and ponder the bronze statue at its center by Charles-François Leboeuf—Eurydice, Orpheus’ beloved and doomed wife.

Passage du Grand-Cerf

https://bit.ly/2JIrkkA

Enter: 145 rue Saint-Denis, or 10 rue Dussoubs; 2^nd arrondissement; 

Metro: Etienne Marcel
Built in 1835, this impressive interior is three-stories high. The skylights are framed by wrought-iron work and the wood-paneled shop fronts house boutiques for fashion designers, artisans and decorators.

Passage du Grand-Cerf (photo: Ralf.treinen/Wiki Commons)

Passage des Panoramas

Enter: 11 Boulevard Montmartre, or 10 rue Saint-Marc; 2^nd arrondissement; Metro: Grands Boulevards

  Passage des Panoramas (photo: MarkusMark/Wiki Commons)

Built in 1799 and still bustling with activity, this is the oldest covered passage in Paris and the first public place lit by gaslight in 1817. Amid the stamp collectors, antique postcard boutiques, and restaurants, there are new trendy shops and establishments that have stood the test of time such as the Théâtre des Variétés opened in 1807. This passage links to several others: Galerie des Variétés, Galerie Feydeau, Galerie Montmartre & Galerie Saint Marc.

Passage Jouffroy

Passage Jouffroy (photo: MarkusMark/Wiki Commons)

Enter: 10-12 Boulevard Montmartre, or 9 rue de la Grange-Batelière; 2^nd/9^th arrondissement; Metro: Grands Boulevards

Directly across from the Passage des Panoramas, Passage Jouffroy, built in 1847, has lots of shops selling collectible movie posters, vintage postcards, antique toys, old books, and interesting curios. There’s even a quirky wax museum opened since 1882, Musée Grévin, and a hotel with budget rooms, Hôtel Chopin.

Passage Verdeau (photo: Davitof/Wiki Commons)

Passage Verdeau

Enter: 31bis rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, or 6 rue de la Grange-Batelière; 9^th arrondissement; Metro: Le Peletier

The Passage Jouffroy leads to the Passage Verdeau, built in 1847. This passage is only a block long and has a mix of old-fashioned shops selling vintage photographs and prints, stamps, old books and postcards.

Tour the Passages Couverts

To learn more about the history, here are some touring options:

Association Passages et Galeries

Tel: 01/44-71-02-48; www.passagesetgaleries.org

Maps for 3 self-guided walks are on the Association's website. Under “Découverte Des Passages,” click “Les itinéraires.” For exact addresses and opening hours (some are closed “fermé” at night and on Sundays), click on “Informations pratiques.” The Association offers a guided tour of the passageways for groups on request (in several languages).

Try these tours, if you speak French or want some practice (private tours in English but at a much higher price):

Passages Couverts

Cultival

Tel: 01/ 73-03-60-03; www.cultival.fr

“The Covered Passages of Paris”: An hour and a half tour of several passages: Galerie Véro-Dodat, Galerie Vivienne, Galerie Colbert, Passage des Panoramas (in French).

Visites Spectacles

Tel: 01/48-58-37-12; www.visites-spectacles.com

“L’Intrigue des Passages Couverts”: A fun option is to experience a “murder mystery” from the 1870s acted out in the passages: Passage des Panoramas, Passage Jouffroy, Passage Verdeau (in French).

EXPLORE MORE: 101 ARTSY & COOL THINGS TO DO IN PARIS (Get my Paris guide on Amazon or Apple!)

5 Free Fabulous Summertime Things To Do in New York City

By Jacquelin Carnegie

In the summertime, many cities around the world empty out and all cultural activities come to a halt. But, during the dog days of summer, New York lives up to its reputation as "The City That Never Sleeps." Cool cultural and fun events never stop! Here's a sampling of not-to-be-missed happenings: 

DANCE MOVES WITH A VIEW
Battery Dance Festival
Battery Park City - Rockefeller Park batterydance.org (Aug) 

Battery Dance Fest, Trainor Dance (photo: Steven Pisano)

Every August, this festival gives dance lovers a reason to rejoice. Wonderful international dance companies are showcased in the most beautiful setting in New York City! But, even if you know nothing about dance, it's worth checking out this festival as each night a selection of five dance troupes performs giving you the chance to discover that you're really a dance fan after all. Plus, the Statue of Liberty is in the background!

THE MUSIC PLAYS ON

Summer Concert 
(photo: Cory Weaver/Metropolitan Opera)

All throughout the summer there are wonderful, free outdoor concerts featuring all kinds of music, but these last until Fall: 

SummerStage 

(www.summerstage.org; June thru Oct) This music fest has expanded beyond Rumsey Playfield in Central Park to 18 parks in all five boroughs. You'll hear cutting-edge music--everything from Indie to Afrobeat, Latin to Soul, Reggae to Fado, etc.--plus you'll see contemporary dance. All performances are free, except for benefit concerts. For jazz fans, there's the Charlie Parker Jazz Festival (Aug). 

(photo: Courtesy Bryant Park)

Bryant Park – Picnic Performances (https://tinyurl.com/3vafee34; June-Sept) – In this beautiful setting—the lawn behind the stunning main NY Public Library—you can enjoy fab, free performances of jazz, classical music, opera, pop as well as dance & theater. Bring your own picnic or garb some tasty goodies at the food tents. Bryant Park will even provide the picnic blanket!

THEATER AL FRESCO

Hudson Classical’s Shakespeare in Riverside Park

                  In the summertime in New York City, Shakespeare is king! The best-known offering is The Public Theater's Shakespeare in the Park (July thru Aug) at the Delacorte Theater in Central Park (just renovated!) Also, enjoy fun, fab performances throughout the 5 boroughs by the Mobile Unit. There are also some lesser-known productions such as Shakespeare in the Parking Lot, Shakespeare in Riverside Park & Shakespeare Downtown.

CINEMA SOIRÉES
Have a drive-in experience without a car! Check out all the lovely outdoor locations to watch movies under the stars in the middle of the city such as Rooftop Films and enjoy free Friday night fireworks on Coney Island!

THE GREAT OUTDOORS IN THE CITY
Governors Island
New York Harbor, www.govisland.com
Open: Daily, year-round; Ferry fee, but free on the weekends before noon.

Governors Island (photo: JCarnegie)

This glorious getaway, just 5 minutes from Manhattan Island by ferry, was for many years a base for the US Army and Coast Guard. But, the Island has been transformed into an artsy recreational area with lots of interesting events. One of the wonderful ways to get away while staying right in the city. (Here are some other great options to stay cool while sightseeing:

https://tinyurl.com/bder2dnp)

New York City: 8 Great Ways To Sightsee by Boat

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Pioneer sunset cruise (photo: SoStSeaportMuseum)

Here’s a sampling of some boat rides with terrific views that will help you experience the city in a whole new light, along with some fantastic sightings of Lady Liberty!

FREE (& ALMOST FREE) BOAT RIDES WITH GREAT VIEWS

Staten Island Ferry
Whitehall Ferry Terminal, 4 South St.; www.siferry.com; Free, year-round

(photo: Staten Island Ferry)

Think of this pleasant 25-minute ride as a mini-cruise with some of the world’s best views--the Statue of Liberty, New York Harbor and lower Manhattan. On Staten Island, get out and explore all the wonderful sights such as the Alice Austen House Museum (www.aliceausten.org) showcasing photography in a lovely setting, the Tibetan Museum (www.tibetanmuseum.org), and the Snug Harbor Cultural Center & Garden (www.Snug-Harbor.org).

Governors Island Ferry
Battery Maritime Building, 10 South St.; www.govisland.com
Open Daily, year-round; Ferry: Free, Sat & Sun before noon. Otherwise, $5, except seniors, kids, military

Gov Island (photo: J.Carnegie)

This 7-minute ferry ride whisks you from Manhattan (& Brooklyn on the weekends) to a little bit of nature with spectacular views of the Statue of Liberty and lower Manhattan. After 200 years as a military base, Governors Island is now a lovely public park. The former barracks, for the US Army and Coast Guard, make it look a bit austere, but all the new recreational features are fun to discover and, almost every weekend, there are entertaining activities, concerts, and events. 

NYC Ferry
https://www.ferry.nyc

(photo: NYC Ferry)

For just the price of a subway ride ($2.90) you can travel on the East River between Manhattan, Brooklyn, Queens, and the Bronx--even to Rockaway beach & soon to Coney Island. Get off and explore the offerings at specific stops or just stay on and enjoy the ride. From the 17th to the 19th century, ferries traversed the city's waterways but, as bridges and tunnels were built, the ferries were fazed out. Now, they're back in full-force and a thrill to ride. The major hubs in Manhattan are at East 34th Street and Pier 11 near Wall Street & the So St Seaport.

FREE BOAT RIDES, PLUS EXERCISE

These kayaking and rowing options are offered on a first-come, first-served basis, but you need to reserve them in advance, so sign up early. (You also must know how to swim.)
Kayaking on the Hudson

The Downtown Boathouse; downtownboathouse.org; May-Oct; Free, Weekends & Weekday Evenings (Pier 26, North Moore St. & Pier 101 on Governors Island, currently closed due to pier repair) 
On the weekends & week nights, The Downtown Boathouse offers free kayaking on the scenic Hudson River. The equipment—boats, paddles, life jackets—and instructions are free. Wear shorts or a swimsuit.
Kayaking in Brooklyn: Pier 2, Brooklyn Bridge Park Boathouse

(photo: Downtown Boathouse)

June-Sept; Free, Sat & Sun, afternoons; Wed & Thurs evenings.

Row Your Boat – Manhattan
Village Community Boathouse, Pier 40, Hudson River Park, at W. Houston St.; www.villagecommunityboathouse.org
April-Nov; Free, every Sunday at noon & Wednesdays, 5:30pm
The Village Community Boathouse offers free, group rowing sessions. The aim is to provide safe, public access to the city’s fantastic waterways and to introduce people, especially kids, to the joys of rowing and boatbuilding. 

NOT FREE BUT STILL WORTH IT BOAT RIDES
In addition to interesting exhibitions, the South Street Seaport Museum offers wonderful boat rides:
W.O. Decker - Tugboat
South Street Seaport Museum, 12 Fulton St; Pier 16; May - Oct; Sat & Sun; Fee, Boat ride + Museum Admission 

(photo: SoStSeaportMuseum)

We think of tugboats as the "worker bees" of the waterways. This one (refit with a diesel engine) was built in 1930 when steam tugs were a common sight in New York Harbor. Today, enjoy a bit of history on a truly-enjoyable, 75-minute ride on the W.O. Decker, the last-surviving, New York-built, wooden tugboat. Delight in stunning views of the lower Manhattan skyline and the Statue of Liberty.

(photo: SoStSeaportMuseum)

Pioneer - Schooner Sail
South Street Seaport Museum, 12 Fulton St; Pier 16; May - Oct; Sat-Sun Daytime Sail & Wed-Sat Sunset Sail; Fee, Boat ride with/or without Museum Admission (2-hour cruises) Enjoy an afternoon or sunset sail on this historic vessel, first launched in 1885. Bring a picnic lunch or dinner and revel in the sights of New York Harbor.

There are lots of ways to enjoy the great outdoors right in New York City!

Top 10 Reasons To Visit Park City, Utah All Year Long

By Jacquelin Carnegie

Park City in the Wasatch Mountain Range (photo: Ashley Olson)

Park City, Utah is known for some of the best ski and snowboarding resorts, but there’s a range of fantastic activities all year long. In spring, summer & fall, there’s hiking, biking, golf, great music & festivals, Olympic experiences, and top-notch restaurants & bars. Plan a visit to this inviting location in ski season and all-year round:

1. Check Out the Coolest Town - Park City 

Silly Market, Main Street (photo: Park City Chamber)

A former silver-mining town, Park City was incorporated in 1884 and has preserved its old-time charm. This quaint, little town is worth exploring with its historic houses and more than 150 bars, restaurants, and cute shops. Stroll along Main Street to discover its traditional charm and modern offerings. Then, stop for some award-winning whiskey at the High West Distillery & Saloon (www.highwest.com), maybe the only ski-in distillery & gastro-saloon in the world.

2. Have an Olympic Experience - Utah Olympic Park

Flying Aces (photo: Utah Olympic Park)

Start with a guided tour, then experience an exhilarating bobsled ride on the same track used during the 2002 Olympic Winter Games. Other activities for the whole family include: extreme tubing, alpine slide, ropes courses, ziplines, etc. And, every spring/summer weekend, be sure to see the thrilling Flying Ace All-Stars Freestyle Show: Olympians, National Team skiers & snowboarders perform acrobatic feats as they soar in the air and land in a special aerated pool. Truly amazing!

3. Do Silly Stuff
Park Silly Sunday Market (Sundays, June –Sept, 10am-5pm) - Browse this street fair on Main Street for gifts, gourmet food, live music, and free kids' activities.

Hiking (photo: Mark Maziarz)

Park City’s main ski resorts have plenty of fun activities in the summer. Ride a ski lift when there’s no snow: 

Deer Valley Resort (Summer: June-Sept) - Offers 3 scenic ski-lift rides to mountain biking & hiking areas; outdoor concerts and lots of family fun. 
Park City Mountain (Summer: June-Oct) - Take the ski lift up & back down to Main Street. For a little more excitement, ride the Alpine Coaster (like a roller coaster with mountain scenery), Alpine Slide (a luge-like track), or the ZipRider® (zip line). Plus, golf and a mountain-biking park. 
Woodward Park City (Year-round) – An 125-acre, action-sports center with indoor & outdoor activities for the whole family.

4. Take a Terrific or Terrifying Tour

(photo: Park City Ghost Tours/Erick Hutchins)

In the late 1860s, the silver ore in Park City’s mountains attracted prospectors from around the world, but the boom years ended in the 1930s, and the treasure became the fabulous snowfall. Learn all about it on an interesting tour: Historic Walking Tours; Park City Ghost Tours; an All-Seasons Adventures Mountain Bike Tour; or, on this self-guided: History & Mine Route Tour.

5. Hear Marvelous Music
Park City Performing Arts (https://www.parkcityinstitute.org) - All year long, enjoy a variety of musical & cultural offerings (some free, some for a fee) in the Eccles Center and the great outdoors. In the summertime, bring a blanket & a picnic basket for the contemporary music series: Concerts on the Slopes at Canyons Village at Park City Mountain. Or, listen to classical music & opera in this beautiful, outdoor setting at the Deer Valley® Music Festival. 

(photo: Deer Valley/Mike Tittel)

The Egyptian Theatre - Hear great bands & fun musical theater at this historic venue.

6. Enjoy Some Fabulous Festivals
After 40 years in Park City, the Sundance Film Festival had to move to a larger locale. But, don’t fret, there’s still the Park City Film series & other fun festivals: Kimball Arts Festival (August) - The oldest continuous-running arts festival in the west, featuring artists, live music, food trucks & fun! Song Summit (August) - The mountains provide a scenic backdrop for this unique gathering: music, food & wellness. Deer Valley Mountain Beer Festival (Sept) - Enjoy local craft brews, food, & live music. Park City Wine Festival (Spring/Fall) - From the West Coast to France, 50+ wineries are featured at the Grand Tastings.

7. Delight in the Great Outdoors: Hike, Bike, Golf, Fish, Ride Horses & Hot Air Balloons

(photo: Blue Sky Utah)

Park City has over 400 miles of free, public trails for hiking, biking & horseback riding. Also, great golf courses (public & private) and plenty of rivers for fishing.
Ride a Horse - Go on horseback riding tours all summer & horse-drawn sleigh rides in winter. Go Fly-Fishing - Try fly-fishing with an expert guide at Utah’s famed, trout stream, the Provo River with Trout Bum 2. Play a Round of Golf - Play a few holes at one of the best, public golf courses in the region, Park City Golf Club. Get a Bird’s Eye View - Get an overview of the whole situation from a hot air balloon.

8. Expose Yourself to Art - Galleries Galore 

Art Galleries (photo: Park City Chamber)

Park City has nice art galleries with a wide selection of work on display from paintings to nature photography. For the Friday Night Gallery Stroll, galleries stay open late from 6-9pm on the last Friday of every month. That includes the Kimball Art Center, a wonderful modern art museum.

9. Take Your Pick of Pubs & Restaurants
Whatever your taste or price range, Park City’s award-winning restaurants offer something for everyone, plus craft breweries, distilleries, pubs, etc. Try these: 
Boneyard Saloon (1251 Kearns Blvd; www.boneyardsaloon.com) - Hang out with the locals over some handcrafted brews & wood-fired American fare. This lively sports bar also has live music on their lovely rooftop patio in the summertime. Davanza’s (690 Park Ave; www.davanzas.com) - Great pizza, tacos and burgers. 350 Main New American Brasserie (350 Main St; www.350main.com) - Fine dining in a casual, friendly setting. 
Savor the Summit (June) – An annual outdoor dinner party on Main Street; participating restaurants set up tables along the street for an evening of gourmet food, craft cocktails & live music.

10. Choose from a Range of Accommodations
If you’d like to stay in style or just rent a bare-bones condo, Park City has a wide selection of lodgings from budget to luxurious:

(photo: Stein Eriksen Lodge)

Goldener Hirsch Inn (https://thegoldenerhirsch.com) – This lovely inn with an award-winning restaurant has the feel of an Austrian ski chalet with just 20 rooms, it’s ideal for a group of friends and/or family. A favorite spot with celebrities keeping a low profile. There’s also a contemporary expansion with 40 addition luxury rooms.
Stein Eriksen Lodge (https://www.steinlodge.com) - This five-star hotel was created by Norwegian, Olympic gold-medalist Stein Eriksen. It’s got fabulous vistas and the best Sunday Brunch in town.
Park City Lodging (https://www.parkcitylodging.com) – Offers a range of fancy lodgings and inexpensive-but-nice vacation rentals.

Make Your Trip Easier:

Bird's Eye View: Skywaller Balloons & Bigfoot Balloons

Park City is in the Wasatch Mountain Range at about 7,000 feet (2,133 m) in elevation. To acclimate, drink lots of water & take it easy the first few days. Be mindful of Park City's Mountainkind™ philosophy, rooted in the idea that how one treats a place is just as important as the experiences one takes from it. Gifts: It’s nice to bring home items made by locals!
Getting There: Fly into the newly-renovated Salt Lake City International Airport, just 25 miles (40 km) from Park City. No need to rent a car, there’s Airport Shuttles, Uber & Lyft.
Getting Around: A car isn’t necessary in Park City, there’s free public buses & a bike share. Also, many hotels offer free shuttles. Start packing!